Killerbumblebee
New member
We all know what a joy engine swaps are. We all love them, so when my 2005 RS spun a rod bearing, I called around, and had a good friend and his dad (who happens to be an amazing mechanic in Limerick if anyone needs) put a new engine in. Didn't have the time to play, and what do you know, the only 2005 RS engine I could find had 95K on it. After doing a LOT of online digging, I found that 06+ 2.5i engines will run on 05 RS wiring, the only difference being the VVL is not employed, robing the engine of power. But for the same price, I grabbed a 2006 2.5i engine with 31K, which promptly went into the car.
Swap went well, drove the car about 6K since the new engine was put in, and I started thinking, how can I get that VVL to work? More research, and several long conversations to a guy by the name of charles (teslamaster) from NASIOC, and the VVL bypass was born. I will update if there are any problems down the road, but as of now everything runs smothly.
A few notes, first, anyone looking to do a 2.5i swap into a pre 2005, remember that the 05+ cars have direct throttle body, rather than a cable. This is a hurtle that has to be overcome. Secondly the idel IS rough if the VVL is locked on, probably equivalent to adding a lightened crank pulley. For information on How the VVL actually works please see Teslamasters writup on NASIOC: Is it worth modifying the AVLS in the 2.5i? (answer, NO).
The basics are however, there are two Oil switching solenoid valves, one on each head. As you face the engine, the one to the left is directly under the main engine wiring harness, the one on the right is on the front of the head. they have two prongs each. Each solenoid is either ON (cam is lifted) or OFF (cam is not lifted). When on the cam is in a more aggressive position, producing more power, when Off the cam is less aggressive to give a smooth idol.
The solution is to manually activate both solenoids permanently (NOTE, I may put a hard "ON/OFF" switch in if it ends up draining the battery, so far no issues). To do this, First, take your handy 06 throttle body that comes with the engine (if you have it) and cut the plugs leaving as much wire as possible on them. The colors are as follows:
Left as you face the engine (in the back):
White with Blue Stripe: Positive
Blue with a Yellow Stripe: Negative
Right as you face the engine (in the front):
Yellow with a Green Stripe: Positive
Green with a Blue Stripe: Negative
Information was gained from a 2.5i wiring manual tracing the wires back to the ecu connection, which is marked with "white" (positive) and "black" (negative)coloring.
The rest is easy. I used 16 gauge wire, red for positive and black for negative. Ground out the negatives to the car frame, I used negative studs already in place and doubled up the connectors, Ran the Left hand positive behind the engine, and tied it into the Right hand positive, then utilized a crimp on eye to link it to the auxiliary battery terminal. that's all there is to it, car's cams are locked "ON".
Now all you have to do is drive and enjoy! I will report if I need to add a switch for on off if there is a sufficient drain on the battery to be an issue. I know there arn't a lot of people playing with the 2.5i engine, but I thought the information might be helpful. PS this will NOT work with the 2.5i. The ECU monitors the VVL, and will not be happy with the cams being "ON" lol.
Swap went well, drove the car about 6K since the new engine was put in, and I started thinking, how can I get that VVL to work? More research, and several long conversations to a guy by the name of charles (teslamaster) from NASIOC, and the VVL bypass was born. I will update if there are any problems down the road, but as of now everything runs smothly.
A few notes, first, anyone looking to do a 2.5i swap into a pre 2005, remember that the 05+ cars have direct throttle body, rather than a cable. This is a hurtle that has to be overcome. Secondly the idel IS rough if the VVL is locked on, probably equivalent to adding a lightened crank pulley. For information on How the VVL actually works please see Teslamasters writup on NASIOC: Is it worth modifying the AVLS in the 2.5i? (answer, NO).
The basics are however, there are two Oil switching solenoid valves, one on each head. As you face the engine, the one to the left is directly under the main engine wiring harness, the one on the right is on the front of the head. they have two prongs each. Each solenoid is either ON (cam is lifted) or OFF (cam is not lifted). When on the cam is in a more aggressive position, producing more power, when Off the cam is less aggressive to give a smooth idol.
The solution is to manually activate both solenoids permanently (NOTE, I may put a hard "ON/OFF" switch in if it ends up draining the battery, so far no issues). To do this, First, take your handy 06 throttle body that comes with the engine (if you have it) and cut the plugs leaving as much wire as possible on them. The colors are as follows:
Left as you face the engine (in the back):
White with Blue Stripe: Positive
Blue with a Yellow Stripe: Negative
Right as you face the engine (in the front):
Yellow with a Green Stripe: Positive
Green with a Blue Stripe: Negative
Information was gained from a 2.5i wiring manual tracing the wires back to the ecu connection, which is marked with "white" (positive) and "black" (negative)coloring.
The rest is easy. I used 16 gauge wire, red for positive and black for negative. Ground out the negatives to the car frame, I used negative studs already in place and doubled up the connectors, Ran the Left hand positive behind the engine, and tied it into the Right hand positive, then utilized a crimp on eye to link it to the auxiliary battery terminal. that's all there is to it, car's cams are locked "ON".
Now all you have to do is drive and enjoy! I will report if I need to add a switch for on off if there is a sufficient drain on the battery to be an issue. I know there arn't a lot of people playing with the 2.5i engine, but I thought the information might be helpful. PS this will NOT work with the 2.5i. The ECU monitors the VVL, and will not be happy with the cams being "ON" lol.
