Best Wax

Iboc_C64

Iboc_C64

New member
Just curious what everyone else here uses for wax. I have been using Turtle Wax with Carnuba but I don't think it works as well as it did on previous vehicles. I think this paint is different chemically some how. Someone told me it's acrylic?

 
for a black car like yours use turtle wax ice polish it leaves no residue it works great then use eagle one was as u dry when u wash!!

 
I've always been a big fan of Meguiar's, either the NXT stuff or the Gold Class. Both are really easy to use and water will bead for a while . You can keep it up with a spray wax or detailer when you wash your car.

 
I have both eagle 1 and Maguires Spray Detailer. I have never been successful at maintaining a finish longer than a few days in this black WRX. It gets dirty too fast and the dirt is too thick to just dust off without damaging the paint. The car also sits in a dirt driveway at night. I was looking for something that might keep the dirt from sticking so hard. I was thinking maybe Maguires NXT tech wax.

Another problem I am seeing now is that the last time I had it in the body shop the body man must have hit some of the plastic moulding with the buffer and it looks dull and slightly scratched, some places are retaining a white residue. Is there a product that will fix or at least mask that?

 
Another problem I am seeing now is that the last time I had it in the body shop the body man must have hit some of the plastic moulding with the buffer and it looks dull and slightly scratched, some places are retaining a white residue. Is there a product that will fix or at least mask that?
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If it's chemical residue, try peanut butter or peanut oil. If mechanical (dulling) try plastX followed by Mothers Back to black.

 
what my car gets-

gold class wax (multi coats) ice wax(multi coats) Then turtle wax spray wax/cleaner (3 coats) just started this and is super clean... My friend does it for me... if I could it would be 100 coats!

best wax I ever use? p21s http://www.p21s.com/ less static then anything else.

tolae_2072_237700188


 
I'm not a fan of carnauba based waxes. Solely for the reason that they lack durability and longevity. If I'm going to spend time and money polishing and waxing, I want something that is going to last 6+ months, while retaining it's durability and shine. I'm pretty biased when it comes to polishes and waxes, but Zaino Bros. has been the best stuff I have ever used. It's polymer based, so it retains itself and lasts. http://www.zainobros.com

 
I know this really isn't about wax....but while doing my winter prep yesterday, I needed to get some tree sap off my car. Before going with some of the suggestions posted earlier on this topic, I went with my instinct and used some antibacterial hand gel (I keep it in my car) on the spots and it worked awesome. I'm not too sure how the clearcoat likes it, but the sap is gone and the car looks better than it has in months....waxed with Meguiar's Gold Class:D

 
Tried turtle wax ice (paste) this past weekend. I like it, it was easy to use and went on like regular wax. Shine is better though. I did find some clearcoat overspray in a few places and so far it seems to be a real ***** to get off. Any suggestions to remove it aside from, rubbing compound and polishing compound? Also to add to my chain of bad luck, the fog light that got punched out when my original front bumper was destroyed may not have been replaced like I thought it was, only reason I say this is because now that same fog light lense is cracked in two and full of condensation. Keeping this thing looking good is so irritating. On the up side I finally found time to scrape the clearcoat off my windows that was keeping me from putting the MS decals on, at least they look good.

 
^Try using claybar to take car of the over-spray.

As for wax, i am using Klasse all in one, followed by some regular carnuba based wax to top it. Works pretty well, i get the protection from the klasse and the shine from the wax.

I would love to actually polish the car but since it sleeps outside it just doesn't make much sense to spend the time/money/energy.

 
My car is black, found out the hard way that no matter how fine a polish you use, it will still leave swirls until you put wax on it. Ugh. I like the TW Ice, I will probably try a clay bar next time to get the overspray off, Im told that it works quite well for that. VIP doesn't seem to carry the ICE version of the claybar though, should I wat till I can find the TW Ice version or would the regular or maguires work just the same? Can't imagine there is much difference except which chemical compounds are used. BTW the overspray does come off, slowly, if I scrub it continuously by hand with a microfiber cloth and turtlewax polish in a bottle, I don't have the time or endurance to keep rubbing this thing for the hours and hours that would take.

 
^Try using claybar to take car of the over-spray.As for wax, i am using Klasse all in one, followed by some regular carnuba based wax to top it. Works pretty well, i get the protection from the klasse and the shine from the wax.

I would love to actually polish the car but since it sleeps outside it just doesn't make much sense to spend the time/money/energy.
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KAI is great stuff, highly recommended.

I can't believe you guys are using that garbage like Turtle Wax ice, or any TW products
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. 98% of the stuff that is available at your local auto parts store is junk IMO. Makes your car look decent for a couple days, then the protection is gone. A GOOD polish and clay bar is key to keeping your paint in good condition. Sealants and waxes are just the finishing touches.

 
Ryan, you keep your car in a garage don't you? My car doesn't stay clean for more than 2 or 3 days, then the wax finish is ruined. I keep it in a sand driveway that use to be an Ice age river bed. Nothing I have ever used lasted longer than the turtle wax ice. I don't have access to anything high end. When I worked at Morrisette's in Waterville we purchased everything from a distributor that drove around in a truck. I would not know the first place to look to get the kind of things we used there and on top of that I don't have a buffer. Everything that I used when I worked in detailing required a buffer. The wax we used there would last a month or 2 if the car was kept in a climate controlled garage. Otherwise I never saw anything that I could honestly say still looked good after a week. Where do you buy your stuff? If it costs more than $50 for wax I will not even consider it, its not worth the effort. Thus I am stuck with cheap **** from VIP, so out of the cheap **** at VIP, what might actually work better than Ice?

 
My car sits outside year round
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it's my DD, but I do my best to take care of it.

I am biased when it comes to waxes and polishes
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. I don't believe in Carnauba based waxes at all, especially for vehicles being used daily up here in the North East. The longevity just isn't there with carnauba based waxes. Almost all of the waxes you find at your local autoparts store are carnauba based, hence why I think they are garbage
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. For a show car, or a car that isn't used daily, or in a location that doesn't battle the elements like we do up here, carnauba based waxes are fine. I've tried many different waxes, and Zaino's polymer based sealants are absolutely perfect for our cars in the North East. Protection from these sealants last 6+ months in my experience. www.zainobros.com A bit expensive, but you don't apply this stuff in large amounts like stuff you find locally. A bottle of Zaino's stuff will last YEARS (I'm still using a couple of there products I purchased 2 years ago), and only needs to be applied 2-3 a year.

 
caranuba.
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Wax was a chore for me on my dads rig...since the early 80s..

I still volunteer once and awhile. It even saved a brittle acrylic to 1.3 million miles...northeast. chunks from battle blast and exploding kamikaze bugs, but what stayed was oh so shiny.
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That truck went as far as popping cabin rivets, very strained old cabover with big engine.

Another odd alternative is very old turtle wax...it tries to emerge once, before finally getting it finalized. (strange batch as it gets old)

if you really want no bs...two part extreme urethane nearly .25 inches thick with metallic layers in between.

what wax?! keep the wax...

That is the only winner. keep the acrlyic gimmicks, all in ones..if I have to take it down to bare metal and start over..so be it, if I want my version.

 
To start with, dont wait for the TW ice claybar, if i recall correctly it's not a "real" claybar but rather a liquid one, not the same. If you want to stay at VIP mothers claybar is where it's at.

Hit up this website for some tips/tricks

http://www.detailersdomain.com/

and i've bought from them before. I consider myself just slightly more anal than most, but i DD my car and it sleeps outside. I dont use a buffer and do everything by hand. 3 products everyone should absolutely have (for all people less than or equal to my ocd cleanings)

Klasse all in one (sealant, wax whatever)

Clay Magic Fine grade Clay bar (same price as meguirs)

Areospace 303 protectant (armourall on steroids, without the crappy shine/residue).

just my .02 but it should help a little. These products are slightly more expensive but you get your moneys worth not only from how long they last but also how little you have to appy to get the finish you want.

 
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