Camber, Caster, and Toe Thread

Now bare with me, this is a long article but contains great information on: suspension geometry and all the handling issues and fixes for cars.

Making it Stick Part 1

http://www.modified.com/tech/0506_sccp_making_it_stick_part_1/index.html

Making it Stick Part 2: Negative Camber

http://www.modified.com/tech/0507_sccp_making_it_stick_part_2/index.html

Making it Stick Part 3: Suspension Geometry

http://www.modified.com/tech/0508_sccp_making_it_stick_part_3/index.html

Making it Stick Part 4: Advanced Suspension Geometry

http://www.modified.com/tech/0512_sccp_making_it_stick_part_4/index.html

Making it Stick Part 5: Dampers

http://www.modified.com/tech/0605_sccp_making_it_stick_part_5/index.html

Making it Stick Part 6: Mono-tube Dampers

http://www.modified.com/tech/0607_sccp_making_it_stick_part_6/index.html

I know that this is a lot of stuff but its good info. (in my opinion) and thought that I would share

 
good stuff.

even for old subes. I got left on my own with the subject...

I only disagree with light wheels, and weight transfer.. I want both heavy and movement.... And that means no low riding...

I guess article is more for driving around in circles.

Unfortunately, camber is not adjustable on most modern cars. Even if camber is adjustable, it's rarely adjustable enough to align a lowered car correctly. The best way to adjust camber on the typical MacPerson strut is to use a camber plate. MacPherson strut camber plates use an adjustable top mount that locates the upper shock mount in a retainer plate that slides laterally on a slotted track.
Click to expand...
I like this quote. informative... I guess I am not the cheapskate after all. it is the manufacturing.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have 7.5 degrees of positive Caster.... I am Caster King... When I turn the wheel lock to lock the front end raises and lowers like a big dog.

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top