Is my new suby worth putting money into?

LMTinME

New member
I may have been hosed...

I paid $2000 for a 1999 30th aniv. L wagon, auto, 2.2. Cali emissions.

Now that I own the car the list is mounting. Some I knew about some I am finding out now.

Needs: 4 new tires, front o2 sensor. rear brake work, exhaust from the cat back, both front c/v boots ripped but no clicking yet, windshield wiper bushing shot, (slaps over in both directions), rot underneath on inside of pinch rail, about 2 fists width side to side worth.(covered very well with tape and painted, so I didn't see it) sticker runs out in august. Other than that its fairly clean with paint bubbling in the normal spots but not through yet. Sunroof siliconed closed due to leaking I was told.

The new news is that it has been sitting for a week and when I started it a large puff of blue smoke came out. Only time that has happened. I'm not familiar enough with the boxer style to know if that is the kiss of death or not. So far, oil and antifreeze look clear. Leaks several drops of oil when standing, but unsure of where from yet. It had a leaking sending switch and I'd hoped that was the whole oil leak but it looks like there is more.

Bottom line, do I sink $ into this car or call it a loss.

What else can I check to help me determine if its worth investing in?

Thanks all!

 
How long have you owned this?

None of that is terrible, but it's gonna take some time to fix.

Reboot the CV's asap, if they're the factory subaru ones it's worth it.

You'll never find the oil leak without cleaning up the engine really well and waiting for it to come back. Likely valve cover gaskets, cam or crank seal. Or, that's a phase2 2.2, could be head gaskets. But impossible to diagnose that over the net.

Brakes area easy, exhaust is cheap. Get someone's takeoff. O2 sensor isn't too expensive, just buy one and replace it.

Mine puffed blue smoke really bad for a while, turned out to be clogged PCV valve. Replaced it, and it never did it again. It's $5 and 3 minutes of time to change.

I have to change a wiper bushing on my car at some point. I don't know how much that job sucks yet..

It doesn't look fun.

I wouldn't say it's a total loss, just pick away at the problems.

Oh, and no car is ever an investment. It's like flushing money down the toilet. Unless you buy a rare super car that's gonna hold it's value, you're not investing anything, because you'll get no return (monetarily) from it.

 
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HI Chris! Thanks for responding!

I've had it about a month. Bought it as a second car to go to the dump and use when the primary car is taken. Put maybe 40 miles on it so far.

Since it is Cali emissions the o2 is like 105$ The exhaust I have not priced yet but when I did my '90 it was almost 500. I figured it would be about the same. I was told the rebooting wasnt worth the time and $. To just wait until they go and replace the whole 1/2 shafts. You of a different mindset?

I wanted to slant the repairs towards the sticker date, so at least it will be on the road. Tires, exhaust o2 brakes all in there. oh boy, have not even tried the ebrake yet...

 
California cars have different emissions systems that are more efficient and granola munching. I kinda missed that part, yea, parts for that system are stupid expensive.

You're in augusta, they don't do OBD2 checks. Just turn off the CEL before going in for inspection, and they won't know there's a problem...

I guess I'm in the mindset of doing all the work myself, I guess having it done at a shop would be more expensive. I've done all my own work for years now, so I don't really think about it.

Did you get the car from a dealer? Because that's a lot of money for a car with that level of problems
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WOw. Good to know I can turn off the light. Did not know that. Hows it done?

I bought it off the side of the road. Dumb me...

I will do some of the work myself, and another member here is real nice and helps me for min$

Thanks again!

 
You can do some half-assery to get the rust through inspection. Fix the axles, fix the brakes. Brakes are like working on a car101. That's pretty easy.

I'd replace the PCV to try to clear up the smoking, it's super easy. That's about all you'll need (from that list anyway) to get it inspected.

If you unplug the battery and press the brakes. Maybe let it sit for 15 minutes. It should reset the computer and turn the light off.

 
outside of cumberland county cant fail a car for state inspection because of check engine light on.

also may I recommend checking into axles from napa. I got a brand new axle from them $85, fit great and has lasted over 2.5 years no issues.

any $2000 "stickered" car is going to need work. end result is whats important, reliable, safe....

 
Sorry, but I disagree with all of the above.

You can fail for a CEL being on for emissions related purpose. They don't check, but I've known people failing for emissions related codes out of cumberland county. The emissions system has to be working, they just don't check it. If the light is on, they pull the code and fail you.

In the inspection book, it says they can do that. In fact, I think technically they can check the emissions system anywhere and fail you on it.

Napa axles are garbage. They can cause vibrating while idling in gear with an automatic at a stop, I've been through lots of them. If they aren't making bad noise I'd reboot the ones on there right now. It will cost you $15 per side. If you want new ones, check EMPI axles.

Maybe I'm biased here, but I've had problems with napa axles. Other people have had great success... Your mileage may vary.

Yes and no... That's a lot of money for a car with a shopping list of problems that's not going to pass inspection for 5 different reasons.

 
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Sorry, but I disagree with all of the above.
I recommend you read state inspection manual online. find it on Maine.gov search for "state inspection" (keep in mind class E only applies to cumberland county)

And please also note I installed a new axle not a rebuilt. (and has no core)

Value of vehicles all relative to what you want out of it and if you are willing to invest time or money or both. (down payment on a newer car maybe more than 2000 and look at future devaluation)

sorry for hijack.

 
^^ his profile says augusta.

I recommend you read state inspection manual online. find it on Maine.gov search for "state inspection" (keep in mind class E only applies to cumberland county)
Everything on the car is supposed to work.

And please also note I installed a new axle not a rebuilt. (and has no core)
Your point? My point is that napa axles aren't always good quality. No matter which brand of them you buy.

Value of vehicles all relative to what you want out of it and if you are willing to invest time or money or both. (down payment on a newer car maybe more than 2000 and look at future devaluation)
Not worth making a point about since he owns the car now.

 
I still haven't had any issues with the new NAPA axles on newer cars. Older ones have definitely been an issue.

 
My points are I am trying to do is give advise to a subie owner. Based on my experience.

Still recommend anyone who ever has an issue with a state inspection to read online manual available at Maine.gov

Not sure why all my points need to be discredited
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Chris is right with inspection manual. As an inspection tech myself, I have seen exactly what he is tanking about. Non Cumberland stickers are great. Just the mechanical parts and if the light is off, slap a sticker and done. But to answer the question of the original post, yes but not a lot of money if it's use is mostly a dump car and one when the primary is used. Fix it so it runs. And leave it. When something else breaks, fix that to the lowest dollar but make well spent. We have a few subies that come in the shop with lots of miles and with non oe parts and no problems related to them.

 
Chris is right with inspection manual. As an inspection tech myself, I have seen exactly what he is tanking about. Non Cumberland stickers are great.
I have a sticker license. and I surveyed many other inspection technicians. find me the words "reject vehicle if..." in regular class A inspection portion in the manual online and any reference to a "check engine light". an inspection station can get in trouble failing a car inappropriately as they can for stickering inappropriately. Only have to visual cat convertor and fuel restrictor.

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sorry again LMTinME

Everything on the car is supposed to work.

Not worth making a point about since he owns the car now.
And I love old subies cause parts are more affordable and easier to find in general. rust sucks on some but they much more cool looking to drive than a cheap old focus. no offense ford owners. and trying to help someone in similar position to LMTinME justify purchase of an older car vs. new one.

 
All of the following are my opinions.

At this point the smoke on startup if not fogging out the neighbor hood I would live with it, when motor is completely worn out, hopefully far in future replace with another or re seal and do valve seals etc.

I would say rust could be biggest issue, depending on structural or not. address first, pound out loose stuff, if not appear struckeral such as only rockers or rear quarters start repair. if not capable yourself find a buddy with a mig welder and get some new or used panels. If not super concerned with appearance, spray paint it.

If driving now would do front o2 sensor soon, can help driveability and fuel mileage.

exhaust, is it so bad cannot cut out rotted flanges etc weld? if so find your new mig welder buddy again, or do as mentioned above find a take off stock unit used.

tires would search for sale thread for used, possibly with wheels for cost effectiveness of no mount and balance. any 5x100 subie wheel should fit. make sure all 4 are close to matching, even get some used snow tires if can (make sure unstudded at this time to avoid a ticket)

not sure on your windshield wiper bushing, fab up something, hunt for used... only drive when not raining. lol.

also ebay can be your friend if done right. for example. may find cheaper front o2 sensor new, search for any negative feedback on buyer and expect it may not last as long as original.

axles I know some say they are junk but I would drive till click then swap out with used or NEW napa or reputable parts store axles. I know this is not widely accepted and you can run into fitment issues but your car is not too old or rare so finding fitting ones should not be hard or expensive. plus working with axle grease sucks. stuffs nasty.

basically biggest hurdle with this car can be in my opinion, how capable or willing you are to do and or learn to do some tasks. or make good friends with someone who can do and has time.

 
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