need info for a clutch install

D

ditch_bound

New member
Nasiocs search sucks and I cant find any good info anywhere. Whats needed to pull the tranny? Can I get away with not pulling the axles off the spindle? Help me please.

 
Un-do the three bolts holding up your control arm. Un-do the sway bar links. Pop the axles off the stub shafts at the tranny. Pull the axles backwards and bungee out of the way.

Whats needed to pull the tranny?
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10mm 12mm 14mm 17mm 19mm wrenches and sockets. Extensions, swivles, breaker bars, ratchets, screw drivers, prybars, blood, sweat, tears, clutch, pressure plate, maybe a flywheel. Locktight. Something to keep the engine from tipping forward once the trans is out. Something to lower tranny so it doesn't crush you once you get it free.

 
the other option to get F axles out is to loosen the bolts holding front strut to knuckle. Remove top bolt entirely. This lets hubs tilt out JUST enough so you can remove the axles. (after pulling the big nuts holding axles into hub/knuckle assy of course, doh!) You need a long thin drift to knock out the locating pins at inner ends of the axles. Then they come out easy, w/inner end first.

Disadvantage of this technique is that you'll probably need an alignment afterward. You can mark the orientation of the strut/knuckle bolts so you get alignment at least close when putting it all back together. Before disassembly, take a sharpie and mark eccentric strut bolt (the top one) with an arrow pointing straight up.

But you probly need an alignment anyway!
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the other key part of getting WRX/STI clutch apart is to remove hex bolt that goes thru the clutch fork (which pooshes/pulls TO bearing). This lives under a cover on side of trans (6mm hex key needed). if you miss this, the trans and motor will NEVER come apart! BTDT. :
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also be very careful to note order of how TO bearing/clutch fork bits come out and go back together. It's easy to get this part screwed up and you won't know until motor and trans are all back together. Belive me, if this happens there will be MANY bad words uttered. BTDT as well. :
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x 374

 
So I got to the point where I needed the 10mm hex to take off the "cap" where the fork is and after I pulled it off there is a plug in there with a threaded hole. What do I do now? Thanks.

 
also be very careful to note order of how TO bearing/clutch fork bits come out and go back together. It's easy to get this part screwed up and you won't know until motor and trans are all back together. Belive me, if this happens there will be MANY bad words uttered. BTDT as well. x 374
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Been there. Ugly scene. Dont go there.
 
Well Im finished. No real problems other then trying to get the damn transmission off of the motor. Took me about 10 hours from jacking it up to letting it down. I threw a cel but I think its because I didnt tighten my intercooler couplers enough. I hope I dont need to do that again anytime soon. I didnt see any way to screw up the throwout bearing and clutch fork but whatev. Thanks for the pointers they really did help.

 
the other option to get F axles out is to loosen the bolts holding front strut to knuckle. Remove top bolt entirely. This lets hubs tilt out JUST enough so you can remove the axles. (after pulling the big nuts holding axles into hub/knuckle assy of course, doh!) You need a long thin drift to knock out the locating pins at inner ends of the axles. Then they come out easy, w/inner end first.

Disadvantage of this technique is that you'll probably need an alignment afterward. You can mark the orientation of the strut/knuckle bolts so you get alignment at least close when putting it all back together. Before disassembly, take a sharpie and mark eccentric strut bolt (the top one) with an arrow pointing straight up.

But you probly need an alignment anyway!
default_wink.png


the other key part of getting WRX/STI clutch apart is to remove hex bolt that goes thru the clutch fork (which pooshes/pulls TO bearing). This lives under a cover on side of trans (6mm hex key needed). if you miss this, the trans and motor will NEVER come apart! BTDT. :
default_smile.png
:
default_smile.png
:
default_smile.png
:
default_smile.png


also be very careful to note order of how TO bearing/clutch fork bits come out and go back together. It's easy to get this part screwed up and you won't know until motor and trans are all back together. Belive me, if this happens there will be MANY bad words uttered. BTDT as well. :
default_smile.png
x 374
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yeah dont forget the hex bolt i did that and man what a LOVING dumb ass i was took me longer then usual to change i was so psych on putting the act flywheel and ceramic clutch.. actualy make that bolt a first step lol. and yes dude is right it ont ever come apart :BangHead:

 
Late to the party, but wanted to add to Nigel's comments. You do NOT have to remove the axle nut to remove the axles from the tranny.

Top strut bolt removed, and loosen the bottom as he notes. Drift the spring roll out of the stub axle on the tranny and then tilt the hub outboard.

You could scribe a mark on the hub/knuckle along the edge of the strut mounting tabs so that when you reinstall you'll be close to where you started. Might avoid an alignment.

Removing the tranny this way was a trick we learned from the Subaru Canada rally team.

Cheers! John

 
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