polyalphaolefins

boxer3main

<1.8 liter
For long time drivers, and in my own case, a service man of over 2000 vehicles in the grubby oil pit... I am obsessed with oil strong enough. I despise spam, but I do like facts in my email. Castrol syntec has helped keep a 23 year old boxer squezing out the "hho killer" and I can drive anywhere to this day on the original build because of it. Adding some things like todays 10% ethanol fuel (and worse) , and external ducting to that of modern cars (pcv type stuff), the low temps make sythetic dead in the spring, all versions. There is another oil called castrol edge, claiming to utilize what today is burning,anyone tried it?

I am going to, for the sake of a rebate, and the facts of low temps, I can go back to 10w 30 instead of the water grade my ea82 makes everything else on the trochoid oil pump. This should be applicable to subaru boxers. The thermal disspiation of even the biggest turbo'd EJ is different than inlines and a majority of exact oils.

The stuff I have in bold sold me. Its at wikipedia, not an oil website.

A more specific type of olefin is a poly-alpha-olefin (or poly-α-olefin, sometimes abbreviated as PAO), a polymer made by polymerizing an alpha-olefin. An alpha-olefin (or α-olefin) is an alkene where the carbon-carbon double bond starts at the α-carbon atom, i.e. the double bond is between the #1 and #2 carbons in the molecule. Common alpha-olefins used as co-monomers to give a polymer alkyl branching groups are similar to 1-hexene or may be longer (see chemical structure below). 1-hexene, an example of an alpha-olefin

Many poly-alpha-olefins have flexible alkyl branching groups on every other carbon of their polymer backbone chain. These alkyl groups, which can shape themselves in numerous conformations, make it very difficult for the polymer molecules to line themselves up side-by-side in an orderly way. Therefore, many poly-alpha-olefins do not crystallize or solidify easily and are able to remain oily, viscous liquids even at lower temperatures. Low molecular weight poly-alpha-olefins are useful as synthetic lubricants such as synthetic motor oils for vehicles used in a wide temperature range.

Even polyethylenes copolymerized with a small amount of alpha-olefins (such as 1-hexene, 1-octene, or longer) are more flexible than simple straight chain high density polyethylene, which has no branching. The methyl branch groups on a polypropylene polymer are not long enough to make typical commercial polypropylene more flexible than polyethylene.
 
For long time drivers, and in my own case, a service man of over 2000 vehicles in the grubby oil pit... I am obsessed with oil strong enough. I despise spam, but I do like facts in my email. Castrol syntec has helped keep a 23 year old boxer squezing out the "hho killer" and I can drive anywhere to this day on the original build because of it. Adding some things like todays 10% ethanol fuel (and worse) , and external ducting to that of modern cars (pcv type stuff), the low temps make sythetic dead in the spring, all versions. There is another oil called castrol edge, claiming to utilize what today is burning,anyone tried it?I am going to, for the sake of a rebate, and the facts of low temps, I can go back to 10w 30 instead of the water grade my ea82 makes everything else on the trochoid oil pump. This should be applicable to subaru boxers. The thermal disspiation of even the biggest turbo'd EJ is different than inlines and a majority of exact oils.

The stuff I have in bold sold me. Its at wikipedia, not an oil website.

all that engineering/oil geek verbiage can be spelt out in 6 letters and 3 numbers: M O T U L 300V

 
all that engineering/oil geek verbiage can be spelt out in 6 letters and 3 numbers: M O T U L 300V

I am glad geekage like this exists, else we be sucking on lead gas and headers in our face.
default_smile.png


motul 300v...

seems a rare one. It is difficult just running mobil1 and stopping at an irving for a quart of oil to match it, around 3 am off of I-95, after 100 miles at 88...

If I can find a gallon, I will try the brand.

 
I too am very serious about my oils... my g35 has a vq35 which is known for burning oil. My oil is changed every 1500-2000 miles. I have found this to be the best interval for my engine. To avoid oil loss... which is key on this HIGH TEMP ENGINE.

recently I have playing around and found my new favorite oil for my car-

I ran mobil one and in 1500 miles burned a quart SMOKE ON THROTTLE AND START UP and never had this happen b4. changed the oil... it was BLACK. Ok well this was 5w30 a group 3 oil...

WIll never use again.

Swapped to castrol edge 5 w 30 and noticed I no longer had sputtering at idle and it was NOT USING ANY OIL AFTER 2k miles. oh and it looked fresh too.

I had been running rotella t everother 2k and amsoil signature everyother 2k and loved it but now I am going to castrol egde... dont know if its a group 4 or not but my car loves it.

my car has 80k on it and should be eating 1 quart every 3000 miles according to NISSAN

yes this is expensive, and no it makes no sense but hey it works and the car runs perfect.

 
Back
Top