I taught myself. Basically the first thing to learn is what gauges you need to be able to tune. You need at a minimum a wideband AFR gauge and accurate boost gauge. Once those are set up, go on the Romraider forums and there's a beginners guide to tuning. Read it, memorize and love it.
If you're just looking to add a little pep to it, you can tune the throttle if you're drive by wire to create the illusion that the car has more get up and go. This is nice because you can make the throttle feel more sensitive and like the car is responding quicker. Doing this is completely safe (if you aren't a fool) as it just simulates you stepping on the pedal quicker.
Timing can be tweaked to make the engine actually respond quicker and if you only change it by 1-2 degrees and do some logging. Look for any knock and also watch on the log how long it takes between the throttle input changing and the engine gaining rpm, and how quickly the target AFR shifts. All of this can be used to see if you're actually getting faster response vs. seat of pants response.
Fueling is absolutely critical before you look at boost. You can adjust your target fueling to be 10.5 if you just want to crank the boost, but it may not be the most effective way to build HP. I find tuning a little more lean (I'm at 11.2 without water meth and about 11.6 with it) and with advanced timing, you get better response, the boost doesn't need to be as high to get the same results. Less boost means less heat and less pre-det (even with a leaner mix). You don't need to be an expert in flash points, octane, atomization, physics or any of that to tune. You just need a broad understanding of what it all is.
Here's a good starter article written in plain English talking about pre-ignition and detonation
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/detonation-preignition-tuning.html
I can't teach you how to tune because each car is different and responds to different tuning strategies.
