Clutch cable broke... Now what?

Chris

Chris

YARRR SUBY MONSTER!!
So title says it, clutch cable snapped. Got the car home, but now what? Just pull it out and stick in a new one? is it that easy?

 
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Hah, had a shift cable break on me in the last car. Drove it home like that for 8 miles. Think everyone thought I was nuts revving it up then getting on the clutch to coast a ways. Took me 1/2 an hour to get home. Sorry, no Idea if your fix is easy or not. Good luck.

 
Called Norm's, they are going to pull one for me, Going to pick it up later today when they call me, hope to get it installed before dark. It is going to rain all weekend, so I really need to get this fixed today.

 
Just remember how it comes out, and do the reverse to put the new one in. It's not that hard, I know you can figure it out, just make sure it's adjusted right!!

 
Just remember how it comes out, and do the reverse to put the new one in. It's not that hard, I know you can figure it out, just make sure it's adjusted right!!
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keep track of where the cable adjuster nuts are set on the old cable, and start with that on the new one. if you lucky, that's right were u want to be. if not, at least it's a good start. you want about a half inch of free play at pedal before clutch fork starts to move.

 
I'm not worried about adjusting the clutch cable, had to do that when Sergei and I pulled the engine, and then I had to do it again when I replaced the fork boot.

I just hauled the old cable out, and it doesn't look like something that can be gotten used. It has crimped ends on both ends, the end with the nuts on it (fork end), and the end that goes into the clutch pedal. Do I just have to cut one crimped end off, put the cable in, and get a new crimp end for it? Or should I just order a new cable? Who's to say a used one won't break soon anyway.

 
I'm not worried about adjusting the clutch cable, had to do that when Sergei and I pulled the engine, and then I had to do it again when I replaced the fork boot.
I just hauled the old cable out, and it doesn't look like something that can be gotten used. It has crimped ends on both ends, the end with the nuts on it (fork end), and the end that goes into the clutch pedal. Do I just have to cut one crimped end off, put the cable in, and get a new crimp end for it? Or should I just order a new cable? Who's to say a used one won't break soon anyway.
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replace entire assembly, not just cable inside rubber-coated housing.

 
replace entire assembly, not just cable inside rubber-coated housing.
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OH, so I need to replace the whole tube that goes through the firewall?

AH HA! that makes sense (and makes it a bit more of a PITA
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). I was reading the service manual, and it sounded like it wanted me to remove the whole thing, not just the cable.

Thanks for the info. I'll wait to pull that apart until I get the new one, otherwise I'll forget how it goes together
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not that hard to replace, the housing unbolts from firewall, reach it from driver's side footwell.

pay attention to routing of cable thru engine compartment, it goes thru firewall, up by cyl head, then up and under intake mani before it goes to clutch fork. if you eff up the routing, the clutch action will be kinda stiff.

 
If memory serves me right. The 90s legacy's had the option of a cable or hydraulic clutch. Just a thought by while your doing it, why not upgrade? Then all you gots to do it bleed it, no effin around with adjustments.

 
not that hard to replace, the housing unbolts from firewall, reach it from driver's side footwell.
pay attention to routing of cable thru engine compartment, it goes thru firewall, up by cyl head, then up and under intake mani before it goes to clutch fork. if you eff up the routing, the clutch action will be kinda stiff.
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I just took a closer look at it, looks pretty easy.

Clutch cable goes pretty much right from the firewall to the fork. The one that goes under the manifold is the hill holder cable. Which I have disconnected anyway.

-----Added 11/13/2009 at 02:02:40-----

Norm's said they'd call back when they had the part ready for me to pick up ... and they haven't called back yet. I guess I'll go in tomorrow and see what's up. Even if it is raining, I could push the table saw, band saw, other misc tools, and some half-finished cabinets out of the way in the garage, and get at least the front of my car in.

 
Norm's is pissing me off. Guy at parts said he'd call me back today by noon if he has the part or not. It is almost 1.00. So I'm taking that as a no, he doesn't have the part, or at least, he doesn't want to sell it to me.

Where else can I go to get this? I NEEEEED my car working by Monday night at the latest, which means I need to get this somewhere. New or used, I don't really care. I just want the part.

 
Yea, I should call them back again today ... would be the 3rd time. I have a hard time being a PITA because I'm just not that kind of person.

Monday night I'm going to be stuck with only my car to get around, so worst come to worst, I'll just put some random cable in there which should work better than starting in 1st gear and rev-matching to shift without the clutch. Which is how I got it all the way home in the first place ...

 
so the one Norm's has has over 250k miles. Bleck. I want something that's not gonna break on me. So I'll call EG tomorrow morning. See what their price is VS online. If they aren't to much more expensive I'll get the OEM part.

My outback is working right now, it is only kind of falling apart at the moment, so I have that to drive around.

 
That sucks!! Whats wrong with the OB
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rear wheel bearings, maybe a front, hard to tell. The clutch chatters REALLY bad, rear main seal, or tranny seal leaking probably
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. And it runs really rich.

Not to mention the suspension is pretty much shot. And something weird with steering at or near full lock on pavement. Poor car. I'll get it fixed up and happy someday. Effing money
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Yeah that sucks!! My step dad has a 98 that needs oil seals, and cv axles and a few other odds and ends. Sucks when the money isn't there to just have it fixed!

 
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