Colisee autox

New paint + knobby tires + gravel = not so new paint >
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I've got a spare set of wheels and what appears to be a pit crew. What do you mean? You gotta rotate them a lot? Flip 'em on the rims? If I got a set, they better last me or it'll be the last set I get.

 
New paint + knobby tires + gravel = not so new paint >
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I've got a spare set of wheels and what appears to be a pit crew. What do you mean? You gotta rotate them a lot? Flip 'em on the rims? If I got a set, they better last me or it'll be the last set I get.
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that's what mudflaps are for...you know the ones that stick out the sides of the car.

 
New paint + knobby tires + gravel = not so new paint >
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I've got a spare set of wheels and what appears to be a pit crew. What do you mean? You gotta rotate them a lot? Flip 'em on the rims? If I got a set, they better last me or it'll be the last set I get.
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You have to get as much negative camber as possible first, then you really need the big FSB to maintain that negative camber. That's the easy part. At the event day you have to swap a set of tires, you dont alway want to do it at the end of the event on a really hot or rainy day. You have to determine which pressure works for your driving style, then you need to find out which pressure works for the weather (rain, sun, cold, hot). Then you need to find out if the pressure you like is ideal for tire wear, if you're removing too much tire, or not rolling over enough you need to adjust. I have to adjust mine throughout the day as it gets hotter out.

I've found driving smoothly on them really helps, and if you hear any spinning or any squeal you're giving the car too much input (either braking, gas, or with the wheel) and need to back off a bit. These cars are relatively heavy, and have aweful camber curves. It's not a good recipe for tire wear.

If you see too much wear on a tire you need to put it on the back or flip it on the wheel ASAP (if the rcomp allows that). You constantly have to be looking after rcomps (they're like a pet!) and it's a hassel. Is it worth it? Well my car ran a 45.8 on Sunday, without them I would wager I'd have been 1 to 1.5 seconds slower, and that's a HUGE difference.

 
They do sound like pets. Expensive, needy, but if you treat them right they'll bring you lots of joy

 
They do sound like pets. Expensive, needy, but if you treat them right they'll bring you lots of joy
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and lots of beating WRX's with less than 100hp
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In a car that should be run with the karts!
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;D If a miata didn't beat a WRX (DS or STX) particularly on our small lots, something is wrong...and you've got me 4-3 raw times this season. O0 Those STi's on the other hand...that front diff makes a WORLD of difference and they should beat similarly prepped miatas with an iron fist.

 
They do sound like pets. Expensive, needy, but if you treat them right they'll bring you lots of joy
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Exactly. Keep in mind 17inch ones for the WRX cost over $1000. With an average of 6 runs per event at 45 seconds each and 15 events you're paying about $900/hr to race in just tires alone
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They do sound like pets. Expensive, needy, but if you treat them right they'll bring you lots of joy
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and lots of beating WRX's with less than 100hp
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In a car that should be run with the karts!
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;D If a miata didn't beat a WRX (DS or STX) particularly on our small lots, something is wrong...and you've got me 4-3 raw times this season. O0 Those STi's on the other hand...that front diff makes a WORLD of difference and they should beat similarly prepped miatas with an iron fist.
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There is no such thing as similarly prepped. 16yo sagging STI springs and 16yo blown out STI shocks don't exist. plus I would have to run against an STi with 160k miles.
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Can someone define Raw and Pax times for the rookie
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Raw = the time you get on the board. Then correct for cones/off course

Pax = a multiplier that is supposed to give you a comparison between classes. basically a handicap.

 
Exactly. The reason pax is flawed is because it's based off what people do at nationals. So if there's a monster in BStock it'll drag the whole classes pax multiplier up the next season, which then makes it tougher for the other cars in that class which aren't capable of those sort of results. Also it is based on people that have their cars prepped to the edge of the rules, which very few of us do.

For example, There's a CStock MR2 Spyder that runs with us which is pretty much a national prepped car with Koni DA struts and big sticky rcomps, not to mention its THE car to have for CS. Compared to say Myself who drives a DS car which is moderately prepped all i'd really need would be some nice adjustable konis even still my car isn't THE car for the class, that would be an integra Type R or BMW 330.

This is why the Pax is flawed, because it's based off silly national results and tries to group all sorts of different cars in a few dozen classes. Obviously there's always going to be a cream of the crop in each class. Raw times however are a direct result of how friggen fast you are, so naturally they're much cooler, and more disgusting than a good pax. ;D
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Ruggedman vs SCCA ???
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So, it still says to me, the lower the time, the faster you are. Whether it's a chick car or a WRX, time for time on the same course. Faster is faster. To me anyways.

 
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