parts compatability

I dunno a whole lot about building n/a blocks for turbo use. What block do you have?

You could always do an n/a build like I'm going to. 25D block, ej22 heads, some porting and cams. Makes for reliable power. Not really too expensive either.

 
Then save for a turbo motor and do it right. Don't try engineer a POS block into something it was meant to be. Save your pennies and buy a wrecked bugeye or something. He'll complete bugeyes are stupid cheap money these days.

 
huh ... cheap wrx's whod a thunk it
default_tongue.png


 
I'm not sure how much of that thread you read, it was shown to us in chat already. They had a lot of custom parts made and it would need to be the same block and about the same mileage on it to get what they got. If you had a leak down/compression test done on you block and it came out decent then it may work. It will cost you a penny to buy all that stuff. To do a low boost turbo on a 1.8 it costs $1500-$2500. And those don't need any internals.

 
I read all 42 pages . they only had the pistons machined because they didnt use sti rods. if you use sti rods everything bolts together .I don't want 680 whp . this just proves that you can boost a ej25d or ej251 to 20 psi with sti rods and pistons with good tune as a daily driver and have no problems. HE GOT TO 50 PSI BEFORE IT BROKE !
default_additional_jawdrop.gif


 
Just because you can doesn't mean it'll be reliable.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
It's all about the internals and ENGINE MANAGEMENT.....aem fic controller. Youll be rebuilding the majority of the motor anyways and if done right it will last along time. A conservative 200-300 is all you'll need for street use. It's been done and it's proven.

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top