went to change my rear rotors and pads and can't get the rotors off. my ebrake was off so that's not it. i've never had a problem on what should take 30 minutes to do, but i don't see why they are froze to the ebrake assembly. i wacked at them w/ a hammer and still wold come off so i got the bright idea to use a sterring wheel puller and it di pull them, but the ebrake assembly wanted to come w/ them. a friend to me there's an oval rubber plugin the back, remove it and i should be able to loosen the assmebly yet there's no room to get a screwdriver in there or even see in there. anyone know what's up?
rear rotor are stuck on ebrake assembly
- Thread starter cleans13
- Start date
krazykarpenter
New member
i had this happen with tires once, they oxidized to the hub, i sprayed some penetrating lube in there and it eventually broke free, that worked for me. I am not totally sure if it would work on your current situation, but it may. Again, that worked for my problem. hope things work out for you.
well i thought of that so as of now i put everything back together and rolled it outa the garage hoping that the hub spinning would break the "seal". it sounds that the assembly it ****ed cause all i hear is the springs clinking and crap. this is nuts, i just want a beer and can't drive to the store to get one. i might just take it for a drive and maybe it will comeoff, but i don't wanna brake the ebrake setup if i can help it.
-=Lobstah=-
Active member
so you cant locate the rear brake adjuster, eh?
-----Added 11/7/2009 at 04:17:29-----
it looks like an rectangle/oval shape plug
-----Added 11/7/2009 at 04:17:29-----
it looks like an rectangle/oval shape plug
i took the plug out but i can't see anything inside, is there a screw in there? either way the susp. arms are in the way of getting a screwdriver in there. i'm pretty sure if i can get to it this damm rotor will come off. i've been looking for pics of it or of what to do. sounds like you might know, what's up?
-=Lobstah=-
Active member
There's a coupling in the hole with gear-like thing in the middle. You can use a slotted screwdriver and rotate it (i forgot which way is tighten, which is loosen). you'll feel it with a screwdriver then either pry it up or down (rotate) a few dozen times.
And like inski said you're rotors_ might_ have extra holes in them, they're there to pop the rotor off. I think they are M6 screws.
yeah thanks lobstah, that's what i was looking for. i cant' see in the hole cause the knuckle is in the way and feeling around w/ a screwdriver just isn't working. could i have rotated the ebrake assembly? about the holes in the rotor, yeah that's how i used the sterring wheel puller, my prob was w/ these adjusting holes
-=Lobstah=-
Active member
So the m6 bolts didnt work for ya?
Give the adjuster another try, jack the ass end of the car up, get there with the flashlight and loosen the e brake.
If all of the above fails, take a 5-10 lb mall and have at it. You might need to get them resurfaced afer that though, but it does work
Give the adjuster another try, jack the ass end of the car up, get there with the flashlight and loosen the e brake.
If all of the above fails, take a 5-10 lb mall and have at it. You might need to get them resurfaced afer that though, but it does work
Nigel Prodrive
Dirt surfer
cleans--
the bolt holes in the brake rotor are designed to have the bolts threaded into them and turned hard against the hub, which pops the rotor off.
if you use those holes to attach a puller, it sort of works but tends to bring other siezed-up stuff with it, as it sounds like you;'ve discovered.
you may need 2 bolts, one for each hole, tighten em alternately and the rotor will pop off...sometimes once you get the bolts as tight as you dare without shearing em off, a couple whacks on the rotor with a big rubber mallet makes all the difference.
the bolt holes in the brake rotor are designed to have the bolts threaded into them and turned hard against the hub, which pops the rotor off.
if you use those holes to attach a puller, it sort of works but tends to bring other siezed-up stuff with it, as it sounds like you;'ve discovered.
you may need 2 bolts, one for each hole, tighten em alternately and the rotor will pop off...sometimes once you get the bolts as tight as you dare without shearing em off, a couple whacks on the rotor with a big rubber mallet makes all the difference.
well the adjuster is rusted and it looks like there is a lip on the rotor that is holding the ebrake setup on there. i'm taking it to midas after talking to them. i'm assuming the lip was made from the original owner driving w/ the ebrake or trying to drift it. guy at midas said that w/ cheap rotors that can happen and said they would charge me half an hour labour to get them loose for me. i tried and tried. thanks for the help guys. if it wasn't for the lip or the broken adjusting screw they'd be off. i hate taking my car to a garage
especially for something so small and stupid
especially for something so small and stupidmidas destroyed my ebrake springs getting the rotors loose. good thing is they got it off. bad news they took the shoes and springs off and put them i a box for me and said i needed new ones:rant:. umm.......i have a box of **** that i don't know how should go back on when i get new parts
this guy is not happy.
been lookin around for the past couple hours to find a pdf of how they should go together or a pic, but little has turned up. anyone got anything let me know. thanks
this guy is not happy.been lookin around for the past couple hours to find a pdf of how they should go together or a pic, but little has turned up. anyone got anything let me know. thanks