SNAP!!

Vecken said:
Sounds like it could work. I'm really leaning towards this 2.2. But I'm finding conflicting information about the egr system. Some say it will only work if it was from an automatic but both cars are manual transmissions. If I replace the engine with the ecu as well is it mostly plug and play?
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You don't need to swap the ecu. Your 5speed 99 outback has egr. Whether the 2.2 has egr or not, it'll plug into the wiring and work fine with the stock 99 outback computer. Again, you'll need the single port exhaust manifold.

If the 2.2 doesn't have EGR, all that'll happen is it'll throw a code. If you're not in cumberland county, who cares. If you need to pass emissions, get an ej22 intake manifold with EGR. Make a pipe to route the EGR input to the intake system between the maf and the throttle body somewhere. This will fool the computer into thinking the EGR is happy. IT worked on my 98, and it's worked on a few other cars I've done it to.

 
That sounds great, I have an engine scanner so I'll most likely just check the codes regularly and deal with the cel and keep clearing it. 2.2 parts can be found rather easily while the dohc ones are never available when you need one. (I needed a sohc 2.5 last year and they were nowhere to be found, but now I found 3 great runners for good prices what gives?)

The cam sprocket broke into at least 20 pieces, yet that head is fine. The opposite head is the one that is jammed and hard to turn by hand. Could this be due to inadequate oiling? I had changed it not 50 miles before this happened and I checked the oil it was just barely above the low mark on the dip stick.

 
I went to a different kind of oil with more "cleaners" I feel like it must have dislodged some sludge as the oil that came out was quite nasty.

 
So I found a 1996 outback engine 2.5, I am getting the whole car. I think this one has the oddball motor will I have any issues dropping it in or do I need do swap out some of the wiring?

 
The donor motor has 270k miles, was not able to get it started because of bad connections but had great compression turning it by hand. I read these have hydraulic lash adjusters which are different than my motor, how do I check those while I have the motor out? It needs valve cover gaskets anyways so I want to make sure they are set perfectly before I drop it in and there is very little information I can find about this one year oddball motor.

 
The hlas just do their own thing, you don't adjust them.  They maintain the lash themselves basically. 

 
P0115 - Generic

Type Powertrain - Fuel and Air Metering - ISO/SAE Controlled

Description

Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit

What is the likely cause. I also found a how to printed out for the timing belt so that cover is coming off and inspected I don't think this has been run for a year.

Also got a p0325 code on it. Likely causes?

 
If you want to use the newer style tensioner, just swap the bracket on the block. IIRC it's held on with 3 bolts.

 
Yep, 3 bolts. I had to get a new tensioner bracket because I accidentally stripped out the threads on mine awhile back. I prefer the new style tensioner.

Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk

 
That would be so sweet because I have a very low mileage tensioner that I got with a pair if heads for my original motor to rebuild. I have the donor motor out now, so I guess im off to swapping parts. Anything I have to look out for while swapping intakes? It was a VERY quiet motor with just a small amount of valve chatter I think was from the loose tensioner.

The radiator was full of ice, should I swap out the water pump with mine while I'm at it? The one on my original motor looks to have been replaced at some point

 
So it's finally in! Pulled the valve covers to re seal them and there's virtually NO sludge anywhere in the heads, someone must have overhauled these when the head gaskets were redone and the cams look amazing, almost no scoring at all.

Really clean for having almost 300k miles. just some old sludge caked on the inside of the covers which I do not think were cleaned. I think I scored with this motor. Swapped the timing tensioner for the modern one, water pump, rear seals, bearings, sensors... Cars suck money so hard.

At this point I think this car deserves a build thread.

Anyone want my old block for a rebuild? It burned very little oil before it blew. I already sourced replacement heads from a running motor that was not overheated and I don't think I will have much time for doing it.

 
And it started first try! This thread might as well be closed, it seems like everyone stopped paying attention a while ago.

 
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