The Big Book of Brat
- Thread starter 04fxt
- Start date
Chris
YARRR SUBY MONSTER!!
I've wanted to make a new header for the GL for more flow and more rumble. There's a badly squashed section of the header I found the other day. It's on the top of the pipe so I hadn't seen it before. Just fixing that would probably increase flow a bunch. It doesn't look that hard.
Out of curiosity, when you're welding exhaust pipe what technique do you use? Do you seam weld it, or do you do short hot tack welds all the way around? I need to stick to one and perfect it instead of doing some of each ... haha. Which way do you think is best? Or is it just a matter of preference and what you can make work best?
Out of curiosity, when you're welding exhaust pipe what technique do you use? Do you seam weld it, or do you do short hot tack welds all the way around? I need to stick to one and perfect it instead of doing some of each ... haha. Which way do you think is best? Or is it just a matter of preference and what you can make work best?
04fxt
New member
thanks again guys.
987- it really depends on the work. If the parent metal is thin, which most pipe is.. then you have to either turn the heat down(which will produce cold, piled up weld) or you can leave the heat up and you will have to move slow and sometimes even do very short stitches in order to keep the temp down of the parent metal, so you don't blow through. Also, with a mig you can pull your stinger back slightly farther than you normally would, thus reducing the temp at the metal. But that will slow current flow and make cold welds, sometimes sacrificing penetration. But if done properly, you can do that instead of changing your heat settings. I do it this way because I'm lazy, and I don't want to keep changing my heat settings. I try to avoid spot welding anything, unless it's sheet metal.
Welding pipe is a challenge in itself. My dad always told me as a kid, that welding up exhaust systems while under a car is probably the hardest kind of welding. It's true, welding overhead sucks, and welding around a piece of thin pipe overhead is even worse. I force myself to do it, and I find it keeps my skills sharp. Not to mention that when I weld something in position(on a bench, or the floor) it's kind of a treat, and much less of a struggle! hahaha
I'm going to try and get the underside of the brat stripped and painted one corner at a time, so those will be the next pics.
987- it really depends on the work. If the parent metal is thin, which most pipe is.. then you have to either turn the heat down(which will produce cold, piled up weld) or you can leave the heat up and you will have to move slow and sometimes even do very short stitches in order to keep the temp down of the parent metal, so you don't blow through. Also, with a mig you can pull your stinger back slightly farther than you normally would, thus reducing the temp at the metal. But that will slow current flow and make cold welds, sometimes sacrificing penetration. But if done properly, you can do that instead of changing your heat settings. I do it this way because I'm lazy, and I don't want to keep changing my heat settings. I try to avoid spot welding anything, unless it's sheet metal.
Welding pipe is a challenge in itself. My dad always told me as a kid, that welding up exhaust systems while under a car is probably the hardest kind of welding. It's true, welding overhead sucks, and welding around a piece of thin pipe overhead is even worse. I force myself to do it, and I find it keeps my skills sharp. Not to mention that when I weld something in position(on a bench, or the floor) it's kind of a treat, and much less of a struggle! hahaha
I'm going to try and get the underside of the brat stripped and painted one corner at a time, so those will be the next pics.
Chris
YARRR SUBY MONSTER!!
Thanks for taking the time to explain that! I've been struggling MIG welding exhaust. My welds always look crappy, don't leak, decent penetration, but not even and crappy looking. So I'll definitely try what you're saying! I'm not good enough to weld around a pipe under a car though... I'll tack the pipe on both sides and then take it down to finish welding...
IBratmanI
Subaru Ambassador- AdidaSubarus
I don't know if your still looking for wheels, but these are nice, and a good deal!!
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=115958
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=115958
04fxt
New member
I built another header/y-pipe yesterday to replace the crazy jungle gym that I built before. This one is ugly and stock looking, but it sounds the way I wanted it to. also blasted the pug wheels and painted/cleared them gold. (temporary until I can afford my new wheels)
pics later, and maybe a video for the exhaust sound..
pics later, and maybe a video for the exhaust sound..
04fxt
New member
thanks Nate! It's got a cat now, and a new 02 sensor.. I cut the back of the cat and fishmouthed the 3" pipe into the back of it so I wouldn't have a seam. sounds a lot better now, still not happy with the header/y. I think I'll order a SB chevy weld-up header kit from summit and split them at the head so I will have 4 primary 1-3/4" tubes back to the collector, and maybe wrap them around the front and to the pass side, like the ej255's.
the muffler is a stainless dynomax ultraflow. I've used a bunch of these and they sound great.
the muffler is a stainless dynomax ultraflow. I've used a bunch of these and they sound great.
