VF40 Just Blew Up

Ya, what I'm saying is, it doesn't take seising the engine to kill the turbo. 

Also, when the engine is out and everything is taken apart, changing the turbo is an extra 0 minutes of labor.

 
I'm not sure the point is getting across honestly. We aren't saying this to hear ourselves, we are trying to help you. And I'm sorry but your family mechanic friend, or whatever he is, should be telling you the same thing we are. There is a HUGE chance that turbo had oil with very small metal shavings circulated through it, which is very bad. Yes, there is a chance it is fine, but a much larger chance that it is not. We are trying to help you out, and save you money and a headache in the long run. The rod bearing spun, which in turn caused small shavings of metal to mix with the oil, and then circulate through out the entire motor, and turbo. It has nothing to do with the motor seizing or not. It's doesn't even have anything to do with it being a VF40. It would be the same precaution with any turbo. If you want to chance it, that's on you, but I know I'm not the only one that says you shouldn't. Just be cautious! Not trying to be a jerk, just trying to make sure you know how big of a chance it is. If that turbo was contaminated, it could eat the new motor too!

 
IBratmanI said:
I'm not sure the point is getting across honestly. We aren't saying this to hear ourselves, we are trying to help you. And I'm sorry but your family mechanic friend, or whatever he is, should be telling you the same thing we are. There is a HUGE chance that turbo had oil with very small metal shavings circulated through it, which is very bad. Yes, there is a chance it is fine, but a much larger chance that it is not. We are trying to help you out, and save you money and a headache in the long run. The rod bearing spun, which in turn caused small shavings of metal to mix with the oil, and then circulate through out the entire motor, and turbo. It has nothing to do with the motor seizing or not. It's doesn't even have anything to do with it being a VF40. It would be the same precaution with any turbo. If you want to chance it, that's on you, but I know I'm not the only one that says you shouldn't. Just be cautious! Not trying to be a jerk, just trying to make sure you know how big of a chance it is. If that turbo was contaminated, it could eat the new motor too!
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Which is why the first thing he's doing is taking the oil pan off to check that. And I'm going to take the advice of a Subaru certified mechanic over someone on a forum.

 
Sorry but I have little confidence in most "certified" mechanics. That's why I only deal with a few small shops on the rare occasion I don't do the work myself.

 
I'm the same way, but he's been working on my family's cars forever and I trust him. I appreciate the words of advice though, and I always like to hear multiple views and opinions on things. I know he'll take care of me though, if the turbo needs to be replaced it will be replaced. 

 
My nutsack is also certified to work on cars but you probably don't want that doing your dealer paid repair.

I've seen plenty of certified hack jobs. blah blah blah im sure your guy is fine. But this is serious raisin. Oil contaminating other systems is a thing and a half ass shade tree job is the last thing you need on a car you probably still owe on.

I've been through this, this isn't a dis on your mechanic. It is a "we're just trying to make sure you don't get cookieed when your guy only replaces the longblock and the shavings in the cooler and turbo go back in and destory the new longblock" situation.

 
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Well even if you're right and they do, it's still under warranty, so I can blow 10 engines in it and it's not going to cost me a dime besides oil and coolant. 

 
Until the warrenty runs out.

Plenty of people have done turbo swaps on LGTs that need it only to raisin the shortblock 10-20k miles later.

Say your new longblock is good but the oil cooler is re-used with bearing shards in it. It is fine for a few k miles, your warrenty runs out. Then the shortblock goes "yeah im tired of having old motor mud pumped through me" and gives up the ghost. Now you need new everything again AND it's on your dime. No bueno.

It's fine to have it redone under warrenty, just make sure who you're having do it covers all the bases. Just trying to help you not get boned dude.

 
Yes but why do it 10 times when it can be done right the first time with a knowledgeable turbo subaru mechanic cause so what if he has worked on a million n/a subaru's turbo subaru are a totally diff. Beast

 
I appreciate the concern, but I still have 39,500 miles or 3 years, 11 months on my warranty so I'm not too worried at the moment. 

Also, my mechanic did all the work on my 02 WRX and that thing ran like she was brand new with 176k miles on her.

He knows his way around a turbo. He has an 86 Grand National that would blow your minds.

 
Haha I know, this site is awesome, I've been a member for like 3 weeks and I've already got 20 people that are concerned about the well being of my car. I can't handle this much love hahaha.

 
So the bottom line is. (if and when I start looking to by a turbo Subaru) is don't buy anything made after MY08+ ?

what is Subaru's motor issues. Head gaskets from 1998 to 2010 NA. Yes they will all fail. Junk short blocks in WRX MY08+. New FB2.5 with junk oil rings. Why do I even own a Subaru? Only good years are 02-05 2.0 turbo maybe 06-07 2.5 Turbo cars?

 
RedForester08 said:
So the bottom line is. (if and when I start looking to by a turbo Subaru) is don't buy anything made after MY08+ ?

what is Subaru's motor issues. Head gaskets from 1998 to 2010 NA. Yes they will all fail. Junk short blocks in WRX MY08+. New FB2.5 with junk oil rings. Why do I even own a Subaru? Only good years are 02-05 2.0 turbo maybe 06-07 2.5 Turbo cars?
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Get anything with a 2.2 and be happy. Or a SOHC 2.5, do the headgaskets properly, and it'll last a good long time. Hell, even the 90's dual cam is a fine motor if you reseal it properly and it hasn't been overheated.

 
When your new engine goes in throw a magnetic drain plug in. I would highly consider replacing the oil cooler, and turbo if need be(it should be cleaned and resealed at least).

Also not all of us are just backyard mechanics here either. Some do have training on engines of all sorts.

Personally, the only way to even remotely get away from many problems is to drop the money on a Cosworth block.

 
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