Axles Axles Axles

2point5RS_Dan

2point5RS_Dan

HATER DAN
Pulling the axles on the RS to put the FXT ones in.

I have the axle nuts off all around. Tried the BFH method to no avail. Anything I'm missing. Do I need to dick with the ball joints or remove the brake rotor or strut or anything? Is there a trick I'm missing. The rally guys brag about quick axle changes, whats the deal. I really don't want to rent/buy subaru tools.

I've also got to remove the rear FXT axles out of the hubs they came with. I'm thinking I'm going to have to pay a shop to do it unless I swap the hubs onto my car.

For the rear diff, are there spring pins connecting the axle to the diff or are they just seated on there unlike the trans. I've got the rear diff 3 bolts from being out and if I can just shunt the diff around to slip the axles off the stubs that would be great.

I looked at both my FSM and read this tutorial. Also called Bratman.

 
Once the axle nut is off, and the tranny end of the axle is disconnected, they should be able to be pounded through. Sounds like they are just really in there!! As for the rear, do you see you roll pins going through the end of the axle near the diff? If so they need to be pounded out before removing them from the stub shafts on the rear diff. If your rear diff does not have stub shafts, then the axles need to be pried or popped out of the rear diff. Sucks that it's giving you so much trouble!!

 
IBratmanI said:
Once the axle nut is off, and the tranny end of the axle is disconnected, they should be able to be pounded through. Sounds like they are just really in there!! As for the rear, do you see you roll pins going through the end of the axle near the diff? If so they need to be pounded out before removing them from the stub shafts on the rear diff. If your rear diff does not have stub shafts, then the axles need to be pried or popped out of the rear diff. Sucks that it's giving you so much trouble!!
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Tranny is in my bedroom, so that shouldn't be in the way. Axle nuts are all off. I'll keep PB blastering them and hammer them.

The rear axle has stubs coming out the diff, but I didn't see any roll pins.

 
Yeah the fronts should be able to be hammered out then. As for the rear having stub shafts coming out of the rear diff, there should be roll pins going through holding them axles on them. If not, I don't know

 
I'm pretty sure that year had male axles in the rear, use a prybar or something, but they should just pop out. They don't really get stuck because they're being bathed in the diff oil.

I'm not sure I'd spray PB blaster at the hubs to get the axles loose, I'd be afraid I'd get it into the wheel bearing.

Block of wood on the end of the axle and bang on it...

 
They gotta let go sometime, Dan held the block and I swung the BFH and they didn't budge, and that was after about 5min of beating on them.

 
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I don't know if you are reusing them axles, but if you leave the axle nut threaded on the very end of the axle, and then beat directly on the end of the axle with a BFH it my come loose. The wooden block may be absorbing some of the blow. So metal to metal might help. Just using the axle nut to save the threads.

 
Yeah, we ended up trying a sledge hammer on the block of wood and ended up vaporizing it.

Chris, I think you're right, I didn't see any roll pins on the rear end so I think they just pry off, which should be simple once I get the last few diff bolts out.

 
Another thing I read in the DIY is that the end of the axles are indented, so you can get a punch on there. I may try the metal punch + sledge combo, or make a ghetto fab press to press them off the hub.

 
Yeah that's why you leave the axle nut on, so it doesn't mushroom the end. Probably would work best if you turned the nut around backwards and did it

 
remove upper strut bolt, loosen lower bolt and tip hubs far outward as they'll go. remove inner end of halfshaft from stub axles at trans (knock retaining pin out first) and then you are ready to start axle removal from knuckle

PB Blaster and air hammer into dished end of axle. hammering on axle end with BFH is not condusive to extended life of wheel bearings, not to mention bad for reusing this axle later.

 
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Nigel Prodrive said:
remove upper strut bolt, loosen lower bolt and tip hubs far outward as they'll go. remove inner end of halfshaft from stub axles at trans (knock retaining pin out first) and then you are ready to start axle removal from knuckle

PB Blaster and air hammer into dished end of axle. hammering on axle end with BFH is not condusive to extended life of wheel bearings, not to mention bad for reusing this axle later.
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As stated above, the trans is out of the car, so no need to undo strut bolts and control arm bolts.

 
default_cool.png
: "hey pops do you have an air hammer I can use"

default_additional_lolwtf.gif
: "yes"

default_cool.png
: "damn subaru axles are seized"

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: "I never got it to work on anything, but give it a shot"

Air hammer + Drivers side axle yielded no results. Things on there good. Walk over to the passenger side axle, put air hammer on, press trigger, boop; in goes the axle.

The passenger side axle popped out fine, but there was a fine coating of brown rust colored POOP on both the axle teeth and the inside of the hub teeth. I cleaned the hub as much as I could, but will be really cleaning it before the FXT axles go in. This also leads me to believe that my drivers side is incredibly seized more so then the passenger side. I'll be PB Blastering it an air hammering it throughout the week.

I also need to check my FSM's to see if there's any gaskets or rubber rings or dumb little things I need to replace in the assembly before I put the new axles in.

 
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