Progress pics of winter/spring transplant

I'm gonna be getting a brand new hood for my RS(thanks to the deer) that would look nice with the front mount if you wanna trade????? ;D

 
ok so this is probaly a stupid question, but isn't that a MAF car? doesn't that have to go in front of the turbo? or can you delete the MAF and use a map with softwear?

 
Well it was an eventful weekend, although I'm probably further behind now then when I started.
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First the good news: Downpipe and exhaust are installed. Front bumper has been cut and fitted for the intercooler. (most nerve racking thing I have ever done to this car). The wideband is installed and wired into the Forester pocket. I picked up a sweet cordless solder gun for this
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I am like a kid in a candy store every time I go to Sears I swear. I found a super fine stainless mesh that is a spatter guard that I made into a makeshift air filter and clamped it all on with a small piece of 4" silicone.

Now the bad:

After going to a half dozen or so hydraulic supply houses not one could identify the fitting on the oil feed hard line coming off the motor. Thanks Subaru! I had to buy a line from Perrin that would fit. The problem is that the line was much shorter than the one I had started with, so the stock hard line needed to be bent upwards for it to work... here's where the pain begins and ends... slowly as I could I began bending the feed line upwards. This line had already been manipulated a bit when I had the FP Green installed and it did not want in any way to go back to where it started and beyond.. result broken oil hard line. The beauty of this is that it shares a banjo bolt with the AVCS oil supply. It's a single hard line that branches off the back of the block to feed the turbo, then runs all the way under the intake manifold to the front of the head. INTAKE MANIFOLD NEEDS TO BE PULLED! I am not looking forward to this!!!

I've been super busy this weekend and didn't really stop to take any pictures, but I'll get some up next weekend of the progress to this point... then I have to start with the intake manifold. While I have it off I plan on doing TGV deletes and I'm most likely going to add the Perrin fuel rails since I'll probably just get the urge to do it later.

Wish me luck!

 
ok so this is probaly a stupid question, but isn't that a MAF car? doesn't that have to go in front of the turbo? or can you delete the MAF and use a map with softwear?
You need to have a MAF unless you switch to a stand alone.

You can see the MAF housing on my passenger side IC pipe, it's where the pipe bubbles out. It does not have to go before the turbo, you can have either a draw-thru like stock, or blow-thru like I am running. I've talked to a few tuners about it and draw-thru is probably better for a quality tune, but I don't want to go from a 4" turbo inlet to a 2.75" MAF housing. We'll see what kind of tuning issues this presents but it's been done plenty by others out there.

 
ok gotcha. i saw that and thought that it was a BOV flange.

looks awsome man, the next few weeks are shot prepairing for autoX but after that if you need a hand let me know

 
My brother is running a blow-through in his Nissan. Its a neat concept. If he blows an i/c coupler he can still drive around with out any problems (except no boost...). AND you can run atmosphere vented blow of valves!!!
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Just kidding. But its true, you can vent them and not have any problems (like stalling and such.

So it looks like you have to take your mafs apart and put the guts into that tube, right? that's a really cool product.

 
You can actually see the flange for the MAF housing in the pic below. All I have to do is screw it in. The location is acutally closer to the firewall where the MAF wires come from, so no need to extend any wires or anything.

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Here's a few pictures as the car sits after last weekend:

Downpipe with V-band flange is installed. The V-bands are definetly nice but having 3 of them to line up including the wastegate is still far from just dropping it in and calling it a day, especially by yourself. Got it done though and now the whole exhaust is bolted up.

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Installed a very fine stainless steel mesh on the compressor inlet. Needless to say this is a weekend car now, and won't be seeing any back roads, rain, etc.
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I always have the option of getting an intake made down the road if the car ends up seeing more service than it does right now.

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Here is the brain for the Innovative LC-1 wideband unit. I chose the Innovative product for it's ability to communicate and log with the StreetTUNER software from Cobb.

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LCD display for the wideband custom mounted into the Forester pocket. The small LED is an indicator if all is working properly, it will flash in a pattern for diagnosis if there is a problem sort of like some cars will do with the check engine light and a diagnostic tool hooked up. It also blinks while the o2 sensor is warming up and goes solid when ready.

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Can't really get a camera in to see the b0rked oil feed line. I stopped by Patriot Subaru Friday to order the whole feed line and intake manifold and TGV gaskets.

Custom color wheel pics coming soon! They should be dropped off this afternoon!

 
Here's a teaser pic of the wheels. The garage lighting and flash do not do them justice at all! In the sunlight there is a lot of metal flake in them.

Most likely switching to black lugs as well, agree?

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Black lugs yes. Looks like tons of room in there without all that plumbing on top. ;D

You'll definately hear the square yardage of atmosphere being used up by that turbo. >
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Ok guys, all finished up for this weekend.

First thing I did today was install the Whiteline rear diff bushings that I got at last years Exeter meet. Took me a while to get around to this, and it was about 15 minutes worth of work.
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Here you can see the top bushing that isolates the rear diff arm from the body. There's another small bushing you can't see on the bottom that keeps the bolt from moving side to side.

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Managed to get the intake all unhooked and pulled off the car. Inski if you thought there was room without the plumbing check it out now! The top of the engine is a mess with dirt and miscellaneous fluids. I'll be taking some time to clean it up before the manifold goes back on.

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With the intake out of the way I was able to get a pic of the broken oil feed line.
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I'll be able to heat the new one off the car and straighten it up before installing it.

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Here's the manifold sans wiring harness. I have to get some Torx bits to remove the fuel injectors and pull the rails. I'll be leaving the TGV plates and bars in, but removing the butterflies. New Perrin fuel rails should be here by the middle of the week that will be installed also.

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Ever wonder how much crap plugs into the harness on the motor?? Check out this spider web!

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Wish me luck getting everything back together next weekend!

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that oil line is a PITA. And its a "bubble" flare with a compression nut similare to GM brake lines. The bubble flare kit is like $300 if you wanted to make your own line. Not worth it for one repair.

 
i heard you found out you've got a big turbo then you thought you had >
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Here's a couple pics of the TGV housings with all the junk removed and ported. Talk about a huge opening up of the intake tract.

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And one picture of the fuel lines mocked up for the Perrin rails. This will finish up today, but I have been very careful about these, they come with one time use clamps and I definitely don't want to have them hold me up at this point!

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The stainless screen was a 14" splatter guard for a frying pan. I got it from Linens and Things and it only cost $9.99. I just cut out the material that I needed and trashed the handle part. I searched high and low for what I considered a suitable mesh looking at all sorts of splatter guards, sifters, etc. before coming across this particular one.

A couple of before pics of TGV housing (not mine). I believe that the butterflies being close to closed is supposed to help with low idle for emissions purposes. They do not exist except in the USDM cars. So I had removed: butterflies, motors/sensors, butterfly rods, and the divider plates. I then had the holes for the rods welded shut and ported the housings.

Bottom:

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Top:

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