FWD Coupe

Well I have ordered exhaust parts which includes a Thrush Turbo muffler. Also had to make an emergency stop at the JY to get a starter. $30 compared to $150 at a parts store. Roll started my car for the second time due to the bad starter. Now to switch out the starter which has so far proved interesting. All connections and bolts come off except the lower mounting bolt. When I bought the car I was told to check it occasionally to ensure it didnt come loose. It never did, and I found why. The nut wont turn and its between a 16 and 17 mm nut. I know what my morning will be spent doing tomorrow.

 
CoupedUpSubie said:
Well I have ordered exhaust parts which includes a Thrush Turbo muffler. Also had to make an emergency stop at the JY to get a starter. $30 compared to $150 at a parts store. Roll started my car for the second time due to the bad starter. Now to switch out the starter which has so far proved interesting. All connections and bolts come off except the lower mounting bolt. When I bought the car I was told to check it occasionally to ensure it didnt come loose. It never did, and I found why. The nut wont turn and its between a 16 and 17 mm nut. I know what my morning will be spent doing tomorrow.
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When I have bolts that don't seem standard size, I use imperial sockets as an inbetween size. Take the size that fits over it but is loose, spin it a few times to break off any rust, then hammer on (I do this with impact sockets) the size that seems closest. Once she's hammered on, apply breaker bar and six feet or so of jack handle on said breaker bar (or use an impact). If you used PB for a few days it'll loosen, if you didn't you'll twist the head off and you'll get to learn how to retap bolt holes weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

 
2point5RS_Dan said:
When I have bolts that don't seem standard size, I use imperial sockets as an inbetween size. Take the size that fits over it but is loose, spin it a few times to break off any rust, then hammer on (I do this with impact sockets) the size that seems closest. Once she's hammered on, apply breaker bar and six feet or so of jack handle on said breaker bar (or use an impact). If you used PB for a few days it'll loosen, if you didn't you'll twist the head off and you'll get to learn how to retap bolt holes weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
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I know all about this. Tell you what, you fit your breaker bar and six feet of jack handle on the nut that needs to be removed and I will give you a six pack.

 
Tons of room in there. Find the right sized 6 point socket and give 'er some!! Those are often replaced with the wrong sized but. It;s supposed to be a 17mm.

 
A 17 "fit" but it also seemed like it slipped. I will be putting it on stands tomorrow because it seems like there is more room from below.

 
So I eventually got the starter replaced. Also I received some presents in the mail today.

rurom.jpg


I also got gaskets and adapters.

 
I bought parts from advanced auto and napa. I paid about $190 total but also got lucky and got a screaming deal on everything except the extension pipe which I had to buy after the original order. It would have been about $220 without my deal.

The $190 includes a few pieces I have to take back.

What I ended up using:

Thrush Turbo muffler

2" exhaust clamp

2 M12 bolts & nuts

Gasket for midpipe to extension pipe

extension pipe

midpipe

spring bolt kit

donut gasket

 
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Still DAMN. Did you think about getting a stock WRX cat back and having it modified to fit? Probably could ave gotten out of it for less than 100 bucks.

 
The biggest reason I didn't do something like that was for ease of replacement. I had considered making it resonator less and just having the muffler but chose not too.

I tend to be a do it correct and don't make something work if you don't have to. I actually have to get a different donut gasket because the one made for it doesn't work right. The flange that is on the cat was replaced and requires a thicker gasket.

 
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Well I had talked to Chris about swapping the drums out to discs on my car. So I went to OpposedForces.com. Figuring out that all I need to have discs is the following items

Backing plates - from pretty much any Impreza/Forester/Legacy

Calipers and rotors

E-brake assembly

Possibly custom hoses

Basically because I don't have an axle stub going through that needs to turn I just have to pull the drum and hub. Then remove the backing plate and wheel cylinder.

Bolt on new backing plates, assemble e-brake assembly, place hub back on, slide rotor on and place caliper on.

Then run hoses and cables.

Bleed brakes.

FWD with 4 wheel discs.

Here is the link for those who want to double check me:

http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_79/brake_system/rear_brake/illustration_3/

 
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You should be able to use the stock hoses to the brake calipers you're going to use. Just make the hard lines to accommodate those hoses.

I'd do this because, one it's easier and cheaper to make your own hard lines. And, if you blow a rubber line you can just go to any auto parts store anywhere and get another one. If you have some custom special thing and you're out on a road trip. You're screwed.

 
Chris said:
You should be able to use the stock hoses to the brake calipers you're going to use. Just make the hard lines to accommodate those hoses.

I'd do this because, one it's easier and cheaper to make your own hard lines. And, if you blow a rubber line you can just go to any auto parts store anywhere and get another one. If you have some custom special thing and you're out on a road trip. You're screwed.
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And that is why I posted it before doing it. Oversights will bite you in the arse.

 
While doing homework for thermodynamics and studying the Otto and Diesel cycles I find this. (and ofcourse it gets rotated)

FoTtZ.jpg


 
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