New to me Leggy (Now with more Ti)
- Thread starter Legwagon
- Start date
Legwagon
BC-BF-*BJ*
Just looked into getting a stock replacement for my air suspension from https://www.subarugenuineparts.com
hahaahaha I don't think so...
hahaahaha I don't think so...
Chris
YARRR SUBY MONSTER!!
What a PITA! Glad that fixed it.Well replaced the oil pan and gasket today! and so far... NO LEAKS!! WOOOOOOOOO
Legwagon
BC-BF-*BJ*
Well, someone over at http://bbs.legacycentral.org/ is having a problem with a leaky oil pan and needed some help..
Since I just did mine last week I thought I should chime in.
Here is a small write-up on how I changed out my oil pan.
I just did my Oil Pan last week. I took off a total of 23 bolts.
(oil pan bolts = 10mm)
(engine mount bolts + dog bone = 14mm)
You have to:
1. drain oil
2. take the two engine mount bolts off and the dog bone from the top of the engine. (3 bolts all together)
3. detach the exhaust header from engine. (6 bolts)
4. Jack the engine up from the bottom of the oil pan.
4. stick a 2x4 between each motor mount and cross-member
5. let engine mounts rest on 2x4s
6. take jack out of the way and take off the oil dip stick tube (I had a wicked hard time getting the dip stick tube out)
7. take off the 14 bolts holding the oil pan on. (14 bolts)(I used a universal joint on an extension for the back 4 bolts)
8. bash oil pan with rubber mallet to free it from the block
9. put new oil pan on!!
When tightening oil pan bolts its VERY IMPORTANT not to over tighten the bolts... I think I read on another post they only need about 4 ft/lbs of torque.
When I dropped the engine back into the cross-member I had a bit of a time getting the engine mount bolts to line back up... so I rested the engine just slightly on the cross-member and used a pipe to push on the mounts and the bolts dropped through the cross-member.
The exhaust header was a bit of a pain to so I used the jack got one side at a time started by jacking the headers up to the block.
Since I just did mine last week I thought I should chime in.
Here is a small write-up on how I changed out my oil pan.
I just did my Oil Pan last week. I took off a total of 23 bolts.
(oil pan bolts = 10mm)
(engine mount bolts + dog bone = 14mm)
You have to:
1. drain oil
2. take the two engine mount bolts off and the dog bone from the top of the engine. (3 bolts all together)
3. detach the exhaust header from engine. (6 bolts)
4. Jack the engine up from the bottom of the oil pan.
4. stick a 2x4 between each motor mount and cross-member
5. let engine mounts rest on 2x4s
6. take jack out of the way and take off the oil dip stick tube (I had a wicked hard time getting the dip stick tube out)
7. take off the 14 bolts holding the oil pan on. (14 bolts)(I used a universal joint on an extension for the back 4 bolts)
8. bash oil pan with rubber mallet to free it from the block
9. put new oil pan on!!
When tightening oil pan bolts its VERY IMPORTANT not to over tighten the bolts... I think I read on another post they only need about 4 ft/lbs of torque.
When I dropped the engine back into the cross-member I had a bit of a time getting the engine mount bolts to line back up... so I rested the engine just slightly on the cross-member and used a pipe to push on the mounts and the bolts dropped through the cross-member.
The exhaust header was a bit of a pain to so I used the jack got one side at a time started by jacking the headers up to the block.
Last edited by a moderator:
Chris
YARRR SUBY MONSTER!!
Some things when I'm doing the oil pan.
You can jack the engine up by putting the jack under the front diff of the transmission and jacking up from there. That way you don't need the blocks under the engine mounts. Makes more access, which is good given the limited space available.
I leave the dip stick tube in the oil pan until I have the pan loose. But you can do it the other way around, doesn't matter.
Key thing I do here is take a heat gun and heat where the dip stick goes into the pan until it's nice and hot. Squirt some PB down into the coupling, heat it some more. Makes it come out MUCH easier. Don't worry about ruining the o-rings, you should replace them anyway. They're always hard when I take them apart.
You can jack the engine up by putting the jack under the front diff of the transmission and jacking up from there. That way you don't need the blocks under the engine mounts. Makes more access, which is good given the limited space available.
I leave the dip stick tube in the oil pan until I have the pan loose. But you can do it the other way around, doesn't matter.
Key thing I do here is take a heat gun and heat where the dip stick goes into the pan until it's nice and hot. Squirt some PB down into the coupling, heat it some more. Makes it come out MUCH easier. Don't worry about ruining the o-rings, you should replace them anyway. They're always hard when I take them apart.
