das GL!

I'm back in the country! I haven't really been home for 2 weeks though. I spent one night at home between coming back from Canada and heading out for another re-enactment. And later this week I'm off again... so not much really going on in terms of cars. Legacy is getting an oil change today though! It's seen a lot of driving lately.

 
I'm back for a while! It's really nice to have things settled down for a bit. Except I've hurt my right arm pretty bad. Makes me want an automatic.... heh

 
So I put on that sport steering wheel. Finally... I got around to borrowing a steering wheel puller. Damn it was easy with the puller!! haha

Now I just need to put up a post on USMB to get the horn button.

It took a bit of messing with it to get the clock spring working. The GL10 has 3 rings (which I didn't know). But fortunately the horn is the inside one. Unfortunately the clockspring was to big to fit with the smaller sport wheel. So with the help of a grinder and some cutters and my soldering iron I mad it all work.

Jason, I know why your horn goes off sometimes when you turn the wheel. You need to put some electrical tape around the wire that comes off the copper ring. The steering wheel casing is metal and the bare wire is grounding to the wheel. Tape it up and you're good!

I feel stupid I didn't see that before, but an easy fix.

 
A pic

wheel.jpg


 
On mine I had the stock thingy for soldering onto the clock spring ring. It's really cobbled together. But I can re-solder yours. I have a better idea for how to do it and some better wire to use. What are you doing tomorrow?

I'm gonna be at Bristol days in the morning, but noting in the afternoon.

 
Fixed the awful camber on the driver's side rear wheel. It wasn't to hard once I figured out what the hell the FSM was talking about. Maybe I'm special or something. but I had to read it a few times early in the morning to understand just what it wanted me to do.

scan0001-1.jpg


 
How'd you know what to set the camber at? Just by looking at the wheel? Crazy, I'd eff something up.

It wasn't to hard
Click to expand...
Sorry, but of all people, I expected you to use the right "to/too/two."

 
I used a measuring tape to get it right.

And I'm taking a summer vacation from correct grammar. You had a whole month in Washington, I get a month of bad grammar
default_tongue.png


 
LOL. I guess that happened when the wheel bearings were done? I dunno why I didn't think of that. Good to/too/2/two hear/here you got it fixed!!

 
Yea, I probably did something wrong when I put it back together. That was the first side so I had no idea what I was doing. haha.

 
I put in new starter contacts today. no more click click click click click click start! It just starts now, which is awesome.

I was leaving a client's house yesterday, went out to my car, got in. click click click click click click. Get out, bang on the starter, click click click START! It was a little embarrassing....

 
That camber stuff...

try it on a wagon with same setup.

I had to learn the rear left inner trailng arm is approaching annealed and can no longer do the tricks with bolts.

I may even weld the outer drag arm just to keep psi.

if you look closely from rear of car.. you may find the left inner trailing arms mounting point is not parellel with the rear end crossmember... an oem error, pre loyale only.. and years of hot exhaust nearby. I am glad it worked out for the sedan, they seem to be bricks back there. A wagon with same years is a bit more trouble, and needs steel eventually.

 
There isn't really anything different with the wagon. It just is a wagon not a sedan. If you can't get your camber right by adjusting the OEM adjustment there's something wrong with your suspension.

 
There isn't really anything different with the wagon. It just is a wagon not a sedan. If you can't get your camber right by adjusting the OEM adjustment there's something wrong with your suspension.
Click to expand...
the car was broke down the middle in two spots, a carrier dangling, busted rear end tube,and a hit and run mangled the bumper

blaming the new gr2s was kinda silly.

anyway, wanted to thank you for that drawing, it puffed the rear left back up to right on the money. I was nervous to try i t, because I welded the rear end with no jig, just quick measures... sure enough, the second I loosened all 3, it fell right into perfection.

made my day.It also made my tractor trailer size weld an act beyond luck...strongly so for some time to come. With 3 subaru books, one weighing in at hefty 10 pounds.. not one drawing showing the trick with the draglink bolts.

This seriously made my 4 years of bent sube today, seeing it come back up into the tight chassis man made.(it is by no means subarus anymore)

 
the car was broke down the middle in two spots, a carrier dangling, busted rear end tube,and a hit and run mangled the bumper
blaming the new gr2s was kinda silly.

anyway, wanted to thank you for that drawing, it puffed the rear left back up to right on the money. I was nervous to try i t, because I welded the rear end with no jig, just quick measures... sure enough, the second I loosened all 3, it fell right into perfection.

made my day.It also made my tractor trailer size weld an act beyond luck...strongly so for some time to come. With 3 subaru books, one weighing in at hefty 10 pounds.. not one drawing showing the trick with the draglink bolts.

This seriously made my 4 years of bent sube today, seeing it come back up into the tight chassis man made.(it is by no means subarus anymore)
Click to expand...
You're welcome for the pic! It was very handy.

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top