FWD Coupe

Chris said:
Just don't leave the parking brake on. haha.

That's really not that long, I've let cars sit a lot longer without any fuel stabalizer in the tank, and the tank mostly empty. And it was fine.

Not that I'd recommend that, but the engine was blowed up, so I said eff it and went road tripping in the GL...
Click to expand...
I'm glad you reminded me of that. My father wasn't happy with the two holes in the driveway last year from me freeing them up. I'm driving it tomorrow so it will be left off.

I don't trust e10 enough to let it sit for more then 2 weeks let alone 2 months. Debating on disconnecting the battery.

 
Mine sat for probably 6 months, and it was fine. I had no way of running it through the injectors and stuff since the motor was seized. So I just left it...

Probably lucky though.

That's the advantage to awd.. when your parking brake seizes it's easier to get it unstuck. haha.

Probably wouldn't hurt to disconnect the battery.

 
It took me 10 minutes of vibrating the drums with a 16 oz ball peen to get them free. Also being on gravel didn't help. The drums might get replaced in the same fashion the front brakes were done. Looking at around $100-$110 for the parts.

 
CoupedUpSubie said:
It took me 10 minutes of vibrating the drums with a 16 oz ball peen to get them free. Also being on gravel didn't help. The drums might get replaced in the same fashion the front brakes were done. Looking at around $100-$110 for the parts.
Click to expand...
Rear disc swap? huh?

 
I really wish. I'm going to use Centric brake parts bought off amazon. My car is stopping quite well with the reman calipers and their base grade pads and rotors so I will give their shoes and drums a chance.

If I was to swap I'd really like to get new parts and the only backing plates I have found are OEM ones and they are $40 or so a piece. If I got my hands on those I would have discs.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
New rear brake parts showing up in a day or two. It will be nice to have rear brakes that actually work well. The parking brake is fully adjusted and I have to be careful about how steep a hill I park on with just the parking brake.

Bad news is the clutch is slipping on occasion while taking off. Should make it another year but I will be saving up to put a new one in.

 
Did a once over of the car in the driveway. Transmission is full, power steering full, coolant nice and green with no oil, brake fluid full(about time), down half a quart of oil. The gravel and ledge under my car is spotted so it is time to find an engine degreaser that can be used and not affect electrical and other parts. Once its all nice and clean hopefully I will find my leak. I am pretty sure its passenger side and to the rear as that cv joint is oily.

 
Got my fog lights working. Originally thought I had a bad ground but I tested the bulb and the resistance was 160k ohms. So new bulb and better grounding point and everything is working.

DAL5A.jpg


 
Applying some dent-b-gone today. Sunday evening and last night were spent fixing the bit of rust I had.

O7zFD.jpg


Primer and black paint for now until I can do something else.

 
Looks good Brian. Get some napa color match and you're good to go.

When I did a rust ectomy on the RS, the napa color match made it look good enough.

 
Spindle was junk. A chunk broke off. Picked a used one up from Norms. Ball joints and a exhaust hanger(i lack one on the muffler) turned into a new spindle and an alignment.

Any recommendations for spraying PBblaster on parts to help prevent more parts breaking?

 
Stickered and aligned. Now to address the oil leak(the garage told me its from under the timing cover) and maybe struts at some point, if not soon then once I turn this thing loose for rallyx.

And old spindle picture.

XmBnQ.jpg


 
Last edited by a moderator:
While sitting around this morning I found a few threads on removing the intake silencer(aka giant white jug in the fender). Curious as to how it would change my car I popped it off in a couple minutes. Took it for a drive and no different in the butt dyno. The intake is loud, as in above 3000 rpm I can't hear my exhaust. Haven't found anyone saying not to remove it. Only case was someone who was lowered and not running fender liners.

 
I say keep it out. Only thing is you may lose low end torque. I don't think it makes a noticeable difference in your car or mine though.

So you're not running that short ram intake?

 
Stein said:
I say keep it out. Only thing is you may lose low end torque. I don't think it makes a noticeable difference in your car or mine though.

So you're not running that short ram intake?
Click to expand...
I am not. I actually sold it quite a while ago. I didn't notice any changes. It may go back on due to driving 100 miles each way to school.

 
So this car is getting a power drivers seat. As soon as I have time to wire it in and deal with the captured nut in the tunnel that broke free a couple years ago.

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top