Nate's OBS: Out Front
- Thread starter Stein
- Start date
Stein
Stein
I went and bought a toggle-button at radioshack yesterday for the driving lights. I'm going to wait to wire the fogs until I get a stock fog button.
Today I wired the button to the relay. The button now lights up when its depressed! Its always happy though
.
I ran 10awg wire from the relay to the fogs but can't split it easily for the second fog. My vampire splicer things aren't big enough.
Today I wired the button to the relay. The button now lights up when its depressed! Its always happy though
I ran 10awg wire from the relay to the fogs but can't split it easily for the second fog. My vampire splicer things aren't big enough.
2point5RS_Dan
HATER DAN
If you actually drive your car in gnarly areas instead of just taking poser shots of your car, you'll probably trash the lower lights. If you're just commuting to work/school/hannaford, they'll be fine that low.
Stein
Stein
Gotta check for deep potholes in a few parking lots if I intend to slide in 'em before swapping the lights then.
These are for driving on tarmac at night though. Like a few months ago when I was on my way home at around midnight and there was some idiot in the middle of the road around a corner on his skate board. I didn't see him til I had turned the 90 degrees already. I don't trust myself to do any off-road type stuff at night, I'd break stuff.
These are for driving on tarmac at night though. Like a few months ago when I was on my way home at around midnight and there was some idiot in the middle of the road around a corner on his skate board. I didn't see him til I had turned the 90 degrees already. I don't trust myself to do any off-road type stuff at night, I'd break stuff.
Stein
Stein
Yep, I already know that. For a while I actually though it was the fogs that had to be off without the high beams, but now I know its the other way 'round
.
They're off the car, going to sand the bar tomorrow in the basement since it is so hot tonight, I bet it'll be hot tomorrow as well. After its sanded I'm repainting it the same dark silver as my 5-spokes (not on the car yet) and a close match for the bottom OB paint color.
I wanted to be able to use the driving lights with the car off, so they're going wired on their own (straight to the battery).
They're off the car, going to sand the bar tomorrow in the basement since it is so hot tonight, I bet it'll be hot tomorrow as well. After its sanded I'm repainting it the same dark silver as my 5-spokes (not on the car yet) and a close match for the bottom OB paint color.
I wanted to be able to use the driving lights with the car off, so they're going wired on their own (straight to the battery).
Stein
Stein
No comments? Fine, that's cool
.
Got a lot of wiring done today after I picked up some 10-12 awg terminals at Lowes. Battery -> Relay (minus fuse holder, which I'm going to pick up tomorrow), relay -> fogs, rewired fog internals (what a PITA this was... they were not made for 10 awg wire, that's for sure). Last step (after getting the fogs fused) is to ground the fogs.
For grounding them, should I run a single wire up to the battery? two wires? Should I just ground them to the frame individually, or should I combine the grounds from the bulbs into one wire and ground that (the same thing I'd do if only running one wire to the battery)?
Hopefully they work by Wednesday afternoon
. I can blind all you guys that got to the buffet before me
. I haven't gotten all of the rust off of the bar yet (Lowes doesn't carry POR-15
) and can't decide if I want to paint it black or not, since I don't think I'll get all of the rust cleaned up by Wednesday.
Got a lot of wiring done today after I picked up some 10-12 awg terminals at Lowes. Battery -> Relay (minus fuse holder, which I'm going to pick up tomorrow), relay -> fogs, rewired fog internals (what a PITA this was... they were not made for 10 awg wire, that's for sure). Last step (after getting the fogs fused) is to ground the fogs.
For grounding them, should I run a single wire up to the battery? two wires? Should I just ground them to the frame individually, or should I combine the grounds from the bulbs into one wire and ground that (the same thing I'd do if only running one wire to the battery)?
Hopefully they work by Wednesday afternoon
Stein
Stein
I can't get the fogs to work
.
The switch circuit works and the multitester says that between terminals 85 and 86 on the relay is about 1 volt.
edit: figured something out.
For one, the grounding is pretty bad. I was holding the ground of the lights (one at a time) to the strut top area, but when I tested that area with a multimeter I got a voltage of 0. So I checked to the battery ground and got 12-14V. Then, since there's a nice fat wire running from said battery ground to said strut top, I checked the end of said wire. 12-14V
. Somehow the current isn't getting from the bolt on top of the strut to the metal two inches away.
Anyway, both lights light up when powered straight from the battery to the battery (battery +, fuse, light, battery -). They don't work, however, when hooked up to the "exhaust" of the relay. Some how the relay switch isn't closing. I tried switching the wires on terminals 85 and 86 and nothing changed.
The switch circuit works and the multitester says that between terminals 85 and 86 on the relay is about 1 volt.
edit: figured something out.
For one, the grounding is pretty bad. I was holding the ground of the lights (one at a time) to the strut top area, but when I tested that area with a multimeter I got a voltage of 0. So I checked to the battery ground and got 12-14V. Then, since there's a nice fat wire running from said battery ground to said strut top, I checked the end of said wire. 12-14V
Anyway, both lights light up when powered straight from the battery to the battery (battery +, fuse, light, battery -). They don't work, however, when hooked up to the "exhaust" of the relay. Some how the relay switch isn't closing. I tried switching the wires on terminals 85 and 86 and nothing changed.
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i-wagon
Well-known member
if there's not a real good clean metal to metal contact, you won't get anything. i normally find and unimportant bolt holding something together and wire wheel it so it's shiny and ground to that, that's how my horns, lights and mike-d's lights were all done. and worked 95% of the time, till i fixed them
Stein
Stein
I guess I'll clean up the area around the bolt and see if that fixes anything, but that's a project for another day.
Why isn't the relay powering up pin 87 (the "to lights" pin)? The lights worked when I bypassed the relay and used the wire going in to pin 30 for power, so the issue is with the relay. Do I need more power to energize the coil inside? I thought the whole point of a relay was to use a low power circuit to switch a high power circuit.
Why isn't the relay powering up pin 87 (the "to lights" pin)? The lights worked when I bypassed the relay and used the wire going in to pin 30 for power, so the issue is with the relay. Do I need more power to energize the coil inside? I thought the whole point of a relay was to use a low power circuit to switch a high power circuit.
Stein
Stein
Update: Weird things going on with the switch...
The switch has three pins, we'll call them 1 2 and 3 .
1 gets power from battery, 2 goes to relay. When I push the switch, the LED lights up and the relay gets 12mA @ ~1V.
when 1 goes to the battery and 3 goes to ground, the LED stays lit no matter the position of the switch.
When jumping pins 2 and 3 with alligator clips and pressing the switch, the relay activates with 2-3 audible clicking noises. The circuit works, but the LED does not light (it flickers a few times when the switch is first activated). What I'm assuming is that some extra power is getting through the LED-dedicated circuit in the switch. I have no idea why the LED does not work though.
The switch has three pins, we'll call them 1 2 and 3 .
1 gets power from battery, 2 goes to relay. When I push the switch, the LED lights up and the relay gets 12mA @ ~1V.
when 1 goes to the battery and 3 goes to ground, the LED stays lit no matter the position of the switch.
When jumping pins 2 and 3 with alligator clips and pressing the switch, the relay activates with 2-3 audible clicking noises. The circuit works, but the LED does not light (it flickers a few times when the switch is first activated). What I'm assuming is that some extra power is getting through the LED-dedicated circuit in the switch. I have no idea why the LED does not work though.