Nate's OBS: Out Front

Well, I need to buy some more cutting discs for my dremel to finish cutting that light bar. The welds are just tearing through my metal-cutting-discs.

 
+1 for sawzall with hacksaw blade
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Well, I need to buy some more cutting discs for my dremel to finish cutting that light bar. The welds are just tearing through my metal-cutting-discs.
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Well, I'm trying to cut between the two strips of metal, so that eventually I can have someone re-weld them on at different angles. A grinder would be super helpful. I don't suppose you have one, do you Jimbo?

 
have said person who can weld ( they are usually equipped for metalworking) cut the pieces for you... or at least that's what i'd do. wait, no, i just bought all the stuff to do it myself. which is also a decent option if you have somebody to teach you

 
Well I think I'm going to have to pick up some aluminum strips as well. I really just wanted to cut them off myself so I could get the damn lights on. Its depressing having them sitting in my garage (with my wheels
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Got the lights mounted. Now I need a bolt for the last FF1000 and to wire them all up. I was thinking of not using a harness, but it doesn't look like they make switches able to handle the power of two fogs, so I guess I'll need a harness.

I don't see anything wrong with using this cheap harness kit. It says it'll handle two 130W bulbs, but I doubt that. Luckily, I wouldn't be running anything over 100W ever. Currently I have, I think, four 55W bulbs, and I'd have one kit for the fogs and one for the driving lights.

I'll probably augment the wiring with some medium gauge speaker wire if its not long enough.

 
Doesn't matter either way as long as you don't eff it up
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I know you like to tinker, so I figured you'd like the schematics to play with. I'm retarded when it comes to wiring so I usually make my electrical engineer father help me : /

 
Lol.

Well Napa's highest-rated switches can only carry 70W (unless he said 70 amps..). So in other words, I need to use a relay.

edit: Two 100W bulbs (200W total, is power additive?) would only use up to ~20 amps, right? 200W/12V = 16.667A. As long as a switch can handle 20amps at 12V, I should be good, no?

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BK_7511085_0276715251

Not sure on my conversion: 20 amps = ? Watts / 126 V. 20 * 126 = 2520 Watts? Does that only apply to 126V systems, or would I be able to say: 2520W / 12V = 210A?

 
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volts * amps = watts. Usually switches are rated by amps, not watts. So double check that.

And use 14.4 as your voltage, because that's the max you'll have in the system.

 
That's the same equation I had, just changed around a bit.

But since current decreases with increased voltage, wouldn't I want to get components that can hold up to the current at my lowest possible voltage?

 
Theoretically, I guess. But as the voltage decreases the wattage a lamp uses decreases as well. It'll only use the rated wattage at the rated voltage.

At 14v your 100w lamp is going to use 7.14Ah. Most decent switches are rated 20A and up, so you'll be fine.

 
Sounds good.

Picked up a pair of 20A/12V switches, and I'll just use some speaker wire as long as nobody tells me its unsafe. I think its skimpy 18g wire though...

 
Sounds good.Picked up a pair of 20A/12V switches, and I'll just use some speaker wire as long as nobody tells me its unsafe. I think its skimpy 18g wire though...
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I'll be the one to tell you it's unsafe.

 
I was thinking more the speaker wire. And the 18ga. You don't necessarily need to use a relay, as long as you're careful your wires don't chafe or come undone in anyway you'll be fine. BUT, USE A FUSE as close to the battery as close to the battery as possible. The fuse is the most important part!

 
Yeah, definitely going to use fuses. I'm thinking one between the battery and the firewall, and then one 5A fuse before each light. It goes near the positive terminal coming off the battery, so I assume it should be on the positive end of each light, no?

 
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