Nate's OBS: Out Front

Sorry about the nut/bolt thing
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. The weird thing is that there is never any play, even when I loosen the thing up a lot. Maybe I need more upper arm strength, or maybe I'm doing something wrong. The clutch fork is the one with the little rubber accordion sticking out of the transmission, right?
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correct.

As long as there's a little slack in the cable you should be fine. Basically you just don't want it to always be riding the TOB.

 
Well the whole cable was inside a tube (the one that goes through the bottom of the firewall, to the pedals), so I couldn't tell if there was any slack. I do have about a half-inch where the clutch isn't engaged, or at least it feels like its not.

While the air box was off, I noticed a wire running up the center of the transmission towards the back of the car that was chewed through. The only thing that hasn't been working for me is the rear windshield water sprayer, so I'm wondering if this wire controls the pump for it. I may try to reach in there some more in the next week to see what that wire is. Very hard to get to though.

In other news, I'm looking at a CAI. I've heard very mixed things about intakes on Subarus. Trying to decide if its worth the risk of messing up my torque curve (if that's really a risk). My car has a Mass Air Flow sensor, right? Not a MAP?

 
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Yea, the annoying thing about the cable being that was you have to replace the whole assembly
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But if you can push the clutch cable about a quarter inch with no movement on the fork, you have about the right amount of play. You'll need someone to watch to see if the fork moves for that one.

 
So, when I was under the hood for the clutch cable, I decided to funk around with my intake.

I pulled out the "torque box" air reservoir (I assume that's what it is I pulled out) and bent a piece of aluminum to box the new opening off from the engine (a crappy heat shield if you will). Trying to decide if its worth it losing the low-end torque, or if I'm just imagining losing the low-end.

 
Notice a difference?

my car (legacy) doesn't have a torque box. It just came that way, and I have a nice amount of low end.

 
I haven't noticed anything good from it, but I feel like there's more shuddering and it takes more gas when starting up from a stop.

Probably just imagining it...

 
If you have shuddering starting from a stop you probably have to learn how to drive a stick shift...

 
The other thing that would cause excessive shuddering from a stop is oil on your clutch. Which would be caused by a leaky oil separator plate or rear main seal leaking.

 
The shuddering isn't bad, and it only happens when I don't use enough gas to start rolling. In other words, yes, I need to learn to drive a stick better.

What size tire iron do I want? I'm going to check Wal-mart for one.

All I know is that nissan lugs are just a tad larger than mine.

 
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The shuddering isn't bad, and it only happens when I don't use enough gas to start rolling. In other words, yes, I need to learn to drive a stick better.
What size tire iron do I want? I'm going to check Wal-mart for one.

All I know is that nissan lugs are just a tad larger than mine.
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Take a lug nut in with you and find out what size you need. Or just get one of those universal tire irons. They look like a +. Each end has a different size on it. I think mine has 17mm, 19mm, 20mm and 22mm. Or something. It'll work for most foreign cars. And they're pretty cheap at napa.

 
Take a lug nut in with you and find out what size you need. Or just get one of those universal tire irons. They look like a +. Each end has a different size on it. I think mine has 17mm, 19mm, 20mm and 22mm. Or something. It'll work for most foreign cars. And they're pretty cheap at napa.
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THIS.

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Buy one of these. They rock.

Makes changing your tires at events much quicker than the crappy stock one. These spin easy.

 
THIS.
135635_lg.jpg


Buy one of these. They rock.

Makes changing your tires at events much quicker than the crappy stock one. These spin easy.
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That's what I was going for. I'd heard someone on Nasioc pick up one where two sides fold down to make it straight for easier storage.

Anyway, I got my oil changed and the dude told me I should flush my power steering system. I know how to check it and refill it, but I'm not sure where a drain plug is.

He also said something about one of the filters. Its not air filter, because that's clean, and I doubt its the fuel filter because he wouldn't be able to see it from under the car or under the hood (right?). I thought the cabin air filter was behind the glove-box, so I don't see how he would have noticed that being dirty either...

 
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power steering may not have a drain plug, might just have to unhook the line going to the steering rack, but it sounds more like he's trying to dupe you to me.

and on my brotherinlaws outback his fuel filter is in the line under the hood, but that'd be obviously there if you were looking for it

 
The dude said I should have it flushed, even when I said I didn't want it done at his shop.

It looks pretty dark, don't know what color its supposed to be.

Maybe tightening the P/S belt would fix whatever he noticed? I left it pretty loose because last time I overtightened it and it got shredded. It slips when I start the car.

 
The dude said I should have it flushed, even when I said I didn't want it done at his shop.It looks pretty dark, don't know what color its supposed to be.

Maybe tightening the P/S belt would fix whatever he noticed? I left it pretty loose because last time I overtightened it and it got shredded. It slips when I start the car.
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If it slips when you turn the wheel at a stop on dry pavement or when you start the car, make it tighter.

I call BS on the PS fluid... but it should be red. It's just ATF.

 
Yeah I have never heard of changing the power steering fluid. And you want the belt to have only about 1/4 inch of play in it roughly

 
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